|King Otto's Castle
Black Max (aka Corridor Crack)
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Corridor Crack is the overhanging fissure found in the corridor formed by the east side of King Otto's Castle. It is about 45 feet right of Plain But Good Hearted. You can't miss it on the left side when you walk into the corridor. Insecure overhanging finger slots to a hand jam. Then it eases off to being just hard up the vertical crack to the top. Ouch!
Standard rack. The crack takes a fairly good spectrum of sizes from small to large.
|Comments on Black Max (aka Corridor Crack)
|By Jon Lonne|
Mar 28, 2006
Dave Ohlsen and I did the first accent of this crack in 1978. We gave it a rating of 5.11d/12a because of the difficulty of the opening moves. This is an unbelievably strenuous climb to be rated 11b, especially if you lead it. We named it Black Max.
|By Brian Treanor|
Nov 25, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13
I attempted this route yesterday and it is stout. 11d/12a seems closer to the mark, compared with other Josh routes. I would write my failure off to my own weakness, but I've sent some other 11+/12- routes at Josh and I watched a couple of other hardmen who I know climb way, way harder than 11b fail on this thing--and we were toproping it at the end of the day!
Big props to Jon and Dave for putting this up (in '78 !?!). Very, very impressive. It would be a proud lead, as your first decent piece of pro is above the crux...
I don't often tape, but for this route you will need a good tape job or the callouses of a blacksmith.
|By Bob Gaines|
Dec 15, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Black Max is probably 12a for the onsight leader, and you better tape up for this one, due to the sharp/rough rock!
Lon Lonne and Dave Olsen's ascent in 1978 was one of the most difficult leads in America at the time (Wailing Wall in Tuolumne was heralded as one of the first 5.12 leads in America in 1975!)