Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Steele
Select Route:
(route to left of New Ideal, right of Rainbow Arch) 
(un-named) 5.7 arete 
5.8 Corner 
Aura 
B-52 
Banana Route 
Bird's Nest Crack 
Black Magic 
Butter D Licious 
Chimney Route 
City Of Worms 
Cloudy Day 
Copout 
Dance with the Devil 
Dead Reckoning 
Deborah 
dreadlock 
Easy Street 
Exit Stage Right 
Flight of the Swallows 
Full Moon Bar B Que 
Gaia 
Ginsu 
Golden Arch 
Golden Arches 
Graham's Crack 
Hob Knob 
Hot Steele 
Hot Wing 
Laser 
Lone Wolf On the Far Ridge 
Man Overboard 
Mean Lean 
Mean Lean (description to be deleted, earlier description previously entered) 
Meathooks 
Minnie Driver 
Modern Day Pirates 
Monopoly 
Mystery Slab 
New Ideal 
no name (on Wolf Wall) 
Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direct), The 
Papillon 
Penchant 
Petrified 
Polar Express 
project on Wolf Wall 
Psycho Killer 
Putting Out the Vibe 
Renegade Trad 
Resistoflex 
Rockwa 
Rustler 
Scooter Girl 
Song of the Cows 
Steele Head 
Stepping Out 
Sting  
Stories 
Sugar Magnolia 
Suspended Animation 
Three Pitch 
Tornado on your Birthday 
Triad 
Uncertain Return 
unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) 
Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. 
unnamed trad on wolf wall 
Vineland 
Walk the Line 
Welcome to Steele 
Wendy's Finger Crack 
Wolfe-Waites 
Wolverine 
Wrangler 

Black Magic 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Curt Merchant?
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Derek DeBruin on May 8, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Follows a thin crack to the roof above and escapes left to two-bolt anchor. Face climbing, using the crack for protection. Protection is non-existent for first 15 feet or so, and is small, but reasonable, throughout.

Note: Met Curt at the crag one day. He told me about this route. I don't remember if he was the first or second ascensionist. Please correct if you know.


Location 

On left side of Amphitheater. Starts on face to left of "Uncertain Return"/"Exit Stage Right," just to the right of "Jet Stream." Starts on edges below thin, vertical seam.


Protection 

Small gear. 1-inch piece nice towards the top.



Comments on Black Magic Add Comment
Show which comments
By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

The meat of the route....take lots of 00, 0, 1 TCUs or C3s...and lots of small to medium stoppers if leading.

..
..

By Jamie S.
From: Gold River, CA
Feb 8, 2012

Les Hutchison freed it, Mark Henley followed. WCounty Friends made the start do-able as it has a flare near the bottom and it would be difficult to lead w/o getting that in for pro.