Black Magic 5.10 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Curt Merchant? |
| Submitted By: | Derek DeBruin on May 8, 2011 |
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Description Follows a thin crack to the roof above and escapes left to two-bolt anchor. Face climbing, using the crack for protection. Protection is non-existent for first 15 feet or so, and is small, but reasonable, throughout.
Note: Met Curt at the crag one day. He told me about this route. I don't remember if he was the first or second ascensionist. Please correct if you know.
Location On left side of Amphitheater. Starts on face to left of "Uncertain Return"/"Exit Stage Right," just to the right of "Jet Stream." Starts on edges below thin, vertical seam.
Protection Small gear. 1-inch piece nice towards the top.
By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Deeper South
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.10+ PG13
| The meat of the route....take lots of 00, 0, 1 TCUs or C3s...and lots of small to medium stoppers if leading.
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By Jamie S.
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 8, 2012
| Les Hutchison freed it, Mark Henley followed. WCounty Friends made the start do-able as it has a flare near the bottom and it would be difficult to lead w/o getting that in for pro. |
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