Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Sunset South
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Aviation T 
Afternoon Delight T 
Afternoon Walk T 
Airbrush T 
Airy Arete T 
Anteater T 
Back Street Revelations T 
Black Magic T 
Blonde Ambition T 
Bountiful Barnacles T,TR 
Cobbler, The T 
Decoy Buckets T 
Direct Afraid T 
Divinity Crack T 
Dodge City T 
Dreamway T 
Facts Of Strife  T 
Jenga Direct T 
Jenga Tower T 
Jug Mania T 
Jugular Vein T 
Liberty Bell T 
Lichen or Not T 
Little Pearl T 
Mercinary Territory T 
Nicki¬ís Climb 5.4 T 
Northwest Conversion T 
Pancake Flake T 
Pigs in Space T 
Second Sun T 
Silent Runner T 
Sinsophrenia T 
Squeeze Box T 
Sudden Journey T 
Sunset Sonata T 
Temple of Doom T 
Terminal Impatience T 
Train Time T 
Train Time Direct T 
Walk in the Park T 
Wind Walker T 
Unsorted Routes:

Black Magic 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Clint Henley, Peter Henley - 1981
Page Views: 592
Submitted By: bbrock on Jul 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
negotiating the start of the first pitch


First pitch- Up through overhanging blocks split by a crack. I bypassed all this nonsense by jug hauling to the right. Next part of the pitch is very dirty.

Second Pitch- From bolted anchors up and right over a roof on tough finger locks. I never saw a pin anywhere. Up blank face and under a perfect hand crack splitting a big roof. Jam and then jug haul to the top.

The second pitch is what you're doing this route for. Dont be detered by the dirty first pitch.


On the Black Magic Buttress; starts 30' right of Trailside Trials.


Up to #3 camalot. Small cams for start of second pitch

Photos of Black Magic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: second pitch
second pitch

Comments on Black Magic Add Comment
Show which comments
By American Dankster
From: Chattanooga
Feb 6, 2012

pitch 2 gets 4 stars. skip pitch one by going up to the treasure chest and crawling thru the hole. You will end up at the anchors to pitch one.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!