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Black Magic 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Clint Henley, Peter Henley - 1981
Page Views: 443
Submitted By: bbrock on Jul 15, 2009
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negotiating the start of the first pitch

Description 

First pitch- Up through overhanging blocks split by a crack. I bypassed all this nonsense by jug hauling to the right. Next part of the pitch is very dirty.

Second Pitch- From bolted anchors up and right over a roof on tough finger locks. I never saw a pin anywhere. Up blank face and under a perfect hand crack splitting a big roof. Jam and then jug haul to the top.

The second pitch is what you're doing this route for. Dont be detered by the dirty first pitch.


Location 

On the Black Magic Buttress; starts 30' right of Trailside Trials.


Protection 

Up to #3 camalot. Small cams for start of second pitch



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By American Dankster
From: Chattanooga
Feb 6, 2012

pitch 2 gets 4 stars. skip pitch one by going up to the treasure chest and crawling thru the hole. You will end up at the anchors to pitch one.