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 ADVANCED
Lower Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Boy and His ArÍte 
Beer Can Direct 
Black Magic 
Black Opal 
Black Pyre 
Blue Wind 
Crown Royal 
Farce 
For Real Crack 
Groove, The 
Hemorroids in Flight 
Novitiate's Nightmare 
Pillar of Society 
Sinbad-Herbert 
Surrealistic Pillar 
Surrealistic Pillar Direct 
Variation 
Wild Turkey 

Black Magic 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Salamanizer on Oct 11, 2006
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Description 

Thin flaring crack right of Black Opal, and left of Blue Wind. Crux comes down low with a kinda sketchy bulge up high. Carefull where you place your gear, it might get in the way of a critical finger jam.


Protection 

Cams, small to 1" Nuts, 1 set.



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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 9, 2007

I toproped this. Wow, this would be a bold lead, as the crack is very thin, very flaring, and gear would probably block critical holds.

By Ian Walters
May 11, 2010

It was! Caughtinside is right, this could be a way serious route. Be careful!