If I were to list off a handful of the top middle 5.12 sport routes I've ever done, the list would probably start out something like this:- Rifle's "Pretty Hate Machine"- Cal Dome's "Ginsu"- VRG's "Mentor"- Cave Rock's "Fire in the Hole"- AF's "Helix"Strong enough endorsement?Anyway, if you find the Black Magic cave, you can't miss Helix.It starts on the left side of the cave and spirals up into a hole.Great fun!...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Having never been to the BM cave till today, I found the directions here to be quite poor as the cave is a considerable distance downcanyon from the .5 mile pullout and the directions here made it sound nearby. Here are some better directions for a low water approach.
Park .3 miles upcanyon of the visitor center rather than .5 at a fairly big pullout on the NORTH side of the road with a huge scree field and powerline. The cave will NOT be visible through thick trees just south of the pullout. Cross the road and find a route across the river(rock hopping in low water). Head upcanyon through some trees on a faint trail till you hit rock, then it should be obvious as you spot the cave and wooden steps. max 5 minutes from river.
If its high water, you may have to park at the .5 mile pullout to find a log to cross the river(did not see pipe), then hike the .2 mile back downcanyon.