Black Magic Rock Climbing
Black Magic is home to the ultra-cool "Helix", a hard 12b (maybe a bit of a sandbag at that rating)that actually spirals up into the top of a big cave.One of the most unique routes you will ever do.
There are also many other routes, most of which are 5.12 and harder, including "Simian" (middle 5.13). There are a couple of 11ish routes as well, but not much else to warm up on.
As a destination, I like the Membrane or the Billboard better (more great routes), but this is worth visiting just for a trip up the Helix - fantastic!
You can park on the right about half a mile after the visitor center. If you walk up the road a bit, there used to be a pipe that you could use as a bridge across the stream - may still be there.
After crossing the stream , go right on the trail until you come to a big cave. This is it.
Weather station 1.2 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Black Magic
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Magic
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Magic:
Kronk 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Orogeny 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Helix 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Simian 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport, 60'
Featured Route For Black Magic
Helix 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Black Magic
If I were to list off a handful of the top middle 5.12 sport routes I've ever done, the list would probably start out something like this:- Rifle's "Pretty Hate Machine"- Cal Dome's "Ginsu"- VRG's "Mentor"- Cave Rock's "Fire in the Hole"- AF's "Helix"Strong enough endorsement?Anyway, if you find the Black Magic cave, you can't miss Helix.It starts on the left side of the cave and spirals up into a hole.Great fun!...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Black Magic Cave
Correct pullout for approach .3 mile upcanyon
This may not be helpful, but the view from the pul...
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 14, 2013
Having never been to the BM cave till today, I found the directions here to be quite poor as the cave is a considerable distance downcanyon from the .5 mile pullout and the directions here made it sound nearby. Here are some better directions for a low water approach.
Park .3 miles upcanyon of the visitor center rather than .5 at a fairly big pullout on the NORTH side of the road with a huge scree field and powerline. The cave will NOT be visible through thick trees just south of the pullout. Cross the road and find a route across the river(rock hopping in low water). Head upcanyon through some trees on a faint trail till you hit rock, then it should be obvious as you spot the cave and wooden steps. max 5 minutes from river.
If its high water, you may have to park at the .5 mile pullout to find a log to cross the river(did not see pipe), then hike the .2 mile back downcanyon.
By Anson Call
From: Provo, UT
May 15, 2014
Does anyone have any info on the line immediately to the right of Helix? It goes maybe 6 or 7 bolts, straight up the slab and into a hole in the roof that's filled with guano. I can't seem to find any info anywhere. FWIW, I tried it out and it seems like a really fun climb.
By Leif E
Jul 30, 2014
Does anyone know the name and grade of the route that branches off orogeny at like the sixth bolt? not the 12c
By Leif E
Oct 10, 2014
@anson call, I've heard it's a 5.12a... that's about all I've been able to dig up about it