If I were to list off a handful of the top middle 5.12 sport routes I've ever done, the list would probably start out something like this:- Rifle's "Pretty Hate Machine"- Cal Dome's "Ginsu"- VRG's "Mentor"- Cave Rock's "Fire in the Hole"- AF's "Helix"Strong enough endorsement?Anyway, if you find the Black Magic cave, you can't miss Helix.It starts on the left side of the cave and spirals up into a hole.Great fun!...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Having never been to the BM cave till today, I found the directions here to be quite poor as the cave is a considerable distance downcanyon from the .5 mile pullout and the directions here made it sound nearby. Here are some better directions for a low water approach.
Park .3 miles upcanyon of the visitor center rather than .5 at a fairly big pullout on the NORTH side of the road with a huge scree field and powerline. The cave will NOT be visible through thick trees just south of the pullout. Cross the road and find a route across the river(rock hopping in low water). Head upcanyon through some trees on a faint trail till you hit rock, then it should be obvious as you spot the cave and wooden steps. max 5 minutes from river.
If its high water, you may have to park at the .5 mile pullout to find a log to cross the river(did not see pipe), then hike the .2 mile back downcanyon.
Does anyone have any info on the line immediately to the right of Helix? It goes maybe 6 or 7 bolts, straight up the slab and into a hole in the roof that's filled with guano. I can't seem to find any info anywhere. FWIW, I tried it out and it seems like a really fun climb.