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Black Magic

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Magic S 
Chalk On The Trigger S 
Climb Interrupted  S 
Distraction S 
Helix S 
Kronk S 
Lock and Load S 
Needles and Pins S 
Orogeny S 
Price Is Right, The S 
Problem Child S 
Simian S 
Stay on the Porch S 
True Lies S 
Tulsa S 

Black Magic Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.44472, -111.69582 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,852
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: richard magill on Aug 6, 2004
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Black Magic is home to the ultra-cool "Helix", a hard 12b (maybe a bit of a sandbag at that rating)that actually spirals up into the top of a big cave.One of the most unique routes you will ever do.

There are also many other routes, most of which are 5.12 and harder, including "Simian" (middle 5.13). There are a couple of 11ish routes as well, but not much else to warm up on.

As a destination, I like the Membrane or the Billboard better (more great routes), but this is worth visiting just for a trip up the Helix - fantastic!

Getting There 

You can park on the right about half a mile after the visitor center. If you walk up the road a bit, there used to be a pipe that you could use as a bridge across the stream - may still be there.

After crossing the stream , go right on the trail until you come to a big cave. This is it.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.2 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Black Magic

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Magic:
Needles and Pins   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Kronk   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Orogeny   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Helix   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Problem Child   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Chalk On The Trigger   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Black Magic   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   
Simian   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Magic

Featured Route For Black Magic
Rock Climbing Photo: Such a crazy fun climb!! Deffently get on it!

Simian 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Black Magic
Others may disagree, but I think this route is classic. The slab start is awesome, even though you're pissed every time you have to climb it (at least I was). It's hard. After the slab, you get a decent rest before climbing through a pretty difficult boulder problem out the steepest part of the roof. Another little rest helps you recover before finishing up on insecure holds. Brilliant. This is the one route that haunts me for not redpointing before moving away.... ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Black Magic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This may not be helpful, but the view from the pul...
This may not be helpful, but the view from the pul...
Rock Climbing Photo: Correct pullout for approach .3 mile upcanyon
Correct pullout for approach .3 mile upcanyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Magic Cave
BETA PHOTO: Black Magic Cave

Comments on Black Magic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan Mayfield
From: SLC, UT
Jun 8, 2016
I don't know about whatever pipe is mentioned in the description, but it looks like the log that lots of people use to cross the river is now washed away from the water being so high and strong this spring. If I can get a rope somewhere I may stick a tyrolean up like for Cannabis wall, or maybe I'll find another log and a few willing hands. Either way, it's not there to cross currently.
By jonathan knight
Jun 8, 2016
No need for a tyrolean in this part of American Fork. Park down canyon in one of the pull outs used for the Hideaway or Red Corners. Walk back up and access the South side of the creek just below the highway bridge. A short trail leads to a 4th class ascent and traverse around the toe of a large buttress that reaches all the way to the river. There is a bolt and short section of fixed line facilitating the descent back down to a trail along the bench above the river. This is a great way to access everything from Unknown Pleasures to the Blue Walls in light of the penstock bridges removed by Rocky Mountain Power a few years back.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 14, 2013
Having never been to the BM cave till today, I found the directions here to be quite poor as the cave is a considerable distance downcanyon from the .5 mile pullout and the directions here made it sound nearby. Here are some better directions for a low water approach.

Park .3 miles upcanyon of the visitor center rather than .5 at a fairly big pullout on the NORTH side of the road with a huge scree field and powerline. The cave will NOT be visible through thick trees just south of the pullout. Cross the road and find a route across the river(rock hopping in low water). Head upcanyon through some trees on a faint trail till you hit rock, then it should be obvious as you spot the cave and wooden steps. max 5 minutes from river.

If its high water, you may have to park at the .5 mile pullout to find a log to cross the river(did not see pipe), then hike the .2 mile back downcanyon.
By Anson Call
From: Provo, UT
May 15, 2014
Does anyone have any info on the line immediately to the right of Helix? It goes maybe 6 or 7 bolts, straight up the slab and into a hole in the roof that's filled with guano. I can't seem to find any info anywhere. FWIW, I tried it out and it seems like a really fun climb.
By Leify Guy
Jul 30, 2014
Does anyone know the name and grade of the route that branches off orogeny at like the sixth bolt? not the 12c
By Leify Guy
Oct 10, 2014
@anson call, I've heard it's a 5.12a... that's about all I've been able to dig up about it

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