Black Magic Poodle 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Chris Miller and Loren Scott, June 1997 |
| Season: | All year (depending upon snowfall) |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Mar 12, 2006 |
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Mike Newheart climbing.
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Description Begin this route by climbing a wedged log until possible to grab some holds and pull onto the rock. Once on the rock climb up to a bulge which can be pulled directly or slightly to the left (easier). Higher, interesting face climbing on good holds leads to a steep finish with amazingly good holds. The route ends at a bolted anchor just where the angle starts to kicks back.
Lots of fun climbing on this with a few tricky moves down low and a slightly pumpy finish on incut holds.
Location This is the left-most climb on the crag, is located just left of the route Golden Spike and easily indentified by the log wedged against the face.
Protection 8 bolts, bolted anchor/rap
Unknown climber on Black Magic Poodle (5.9), Holco...
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Midway up Black Magic Poodle (5.9).
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Mike obviously having a good time.
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Rob S. high on Black Magic Poodle (5.9), Holcomb V...
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Chris leads up Black Magic Poodle.
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Chris clipping, near the top of Black Magic Poodle...
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BETA PHOTO: Black Magic Poodle (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
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| Comments on Black Magic Poodle |
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.9
| Fun, steep, positive and highly recommended. Crux maybe exiting the first bolt, but a pump crux awaits those who take the grade for granted. Make extra sure to watch out for the wild poodles that have wandered in from JTree to the base of this climb, along with the unprotected tree trunk moves before the first clip. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007
| Definitely a fun route. The opening slab moves (of the tree trunk) are quite slick; I think we need to knock an old piton into the wood. One o' these days the trunk will rot away and the climb will get a lot harder. ;-) |
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Jun 17, 2007
rating: 5.9
| There was once a bolt on the log. It must have been chopped. |
By Jeff Scofield
From: Yorba Linda, CA
May 14, 2012
| I'm a big fan of bolts to prevent a ground fall but the log is so low off the ground it wouldn't do anything. A fall would still be to the ground... |
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