Black Magic Panties 

I did this route in fall of '05 and did not find a pin on the route. I saw a nice spot where a pin might have been placed downward next to a small rail. There are several bolts up higher on the face but the pro is basically non-existent for 40-60ft.

Although the moves are fun and easy down lower (5.9+) you won't be getting much good pro. There are just not many weaknesses in the rock, and where you can get them in the rock is poor. A pin should be replaced to keep someone from dieing on this route.

One more note: In the new McMillan/Brock guidebook the lines are mislabeled on the topo picture. The descriptions are correct.

Make sure you are comfortable climbing well above run-out pro on 10a. I found the pro was not bad just few and far between as the Handren guide suggests.

I felt the description in the Swain guide was a bit more accurate with regard to the wandering nature of the route and following the obvious weaknesses. I climbed up down and over on a few occasions to find gear placement but it's there. I equalized nuts and doubled up where possible.

overall - a great heads-up route. I would not add a thing but it's certainly not a route for everyone. It may be a bad scene IF you fell; however, some routes are like that.