Black Magic Panties
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This is route "B" in the photo.
Supposed to be some nice climbing, but pretty scary in the pro department. In between the Hop Route and Sensuous Mortician, climb easiest path up face to fixed pin at 30 feet, then continue wandering, generally headed for a crack in the roof above. Supposed to be two bolts on the face leading to the roof crack. Climb roof crack and belay in horizontals above. Have to either traverse down to the Sensuous Mortician anchor or go left and join the Hop Route.
Fixed pin (?), couple of bolts, small wireds, cams (#1 - #3 for belay). This is a scary and potentially dangerous lead.
|Comments on Black Magic Panties
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 13, 2006
rating: 5.10- X
I did this route in fall of '05 and did not find a pin on the route. I saw a nice spot where a pin might have been placed downward next to a small rail. There are several bolts up higher on the face but the pro is basically non-existent for 40-60ft.
Although the moves are fun and easy down lower (5.9+) you won't be getting much good pro. There are just not many weaknesses in the rock, and where you can get them in the rock is poor. A pin should be replaced to keep someone from dieing on this route.
One more note: In the new McMillan/Brock guidebook the lines are mislabeled on the topo picture. The descriptions are correct.
Sep 2, 2008
Make sure you are comfortable climbing well above run-out pro on 10a. I found the pro was not bad just few and far between as the Handren guide suggests.
I felt the description in the Swain guide was a bit more accurate with regard to the wandering nature of the route and following the obvious weaknesses. I climbed up down and over on a few occasions to find gear placement but it's there. I equalized nuts and doubled up where possible.
overall - a great heads-up route. I would not add a thing but it's certainly not a route for everyone. It may be a bad scene IF you fell; however, some routes are like that.