Black Magic Panties
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BMP climbs the face between the Hop Route and Sensuous Mortician. Begin by bouldering up the face and placing pro. This is followed by a long stretch without reliable pro and potential for decking, however the climbing is easy. Beyond this pro is good but spaced, and one must wander a bit to find it and also the path of least resistance.
Before reaching the roof, clip two bolts as you make your way up a slick face, then pull the roof on jugs just right of the obvious crack. Build an anchor above or traverse left to the Hop Route.
Single run of cams and wires. 70 or 80 meter cord useful.
|Comments on Black Magic Panties
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 13, 2006
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a X
I did this route in fall of '05 and did not find a pin on the route. I saw a nice spot where a pin might have been placed downward next to a small rail. There are several bolts up higher on the face but the pro is basically non-existent for 40-60ft.
Although the moves are fun and easy down lower (5.9+) you won't be getting much good pro. There are just not many weaknesses in the rock, and where you can get them in the rock is poor. A pin should be replaced to keep someone from dieing on this route.
One more note: In the new McMillan/Brock guidebook the lines are mislabeled on the topo picture. The descriptions are correct.
Sep 2, 2008
Make sure you are comfortable climbing well above run-out pro on 10a. I found the pro was not bad just few and far between as the Handren guide suggests.
I felt the description in the Swain guide was a bit more accurate with regard to the wandering nature of the route and following the obvious weaknesses. I climbed up down and over on a few occasions to find gear placement but it's there. I equalized nuts and doubled up where possible.
overall - a great heads-up route. I would not add a thing but it's certainly not a route for everyone. It may be a bad scene IF you fell; however, some routes are like that.