|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||NIck Nordbloom, Jenni Stone, Danny Rider - 1988|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Jan 1, 2005|
|Comments on Black Magic Panties||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 13, 2006
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
I did this route in fall of '05 and did not find a pin on the route. I saw a nice spot where a pin might have been placed downward next to a small rail. There are several bolts up higher on the face but the pro is basically non-existent for 40-60ft.
Although the moves are fun and easy down lower (5.9+) you won't be getting much good pro. There are just not many weaknesses in the rock, and where you can get them in the rock is poor. A pin should be replaced to keep someone from dieing on this route.
One more note: In the new McMillan/Brock guidebook the lines are mislabeled on the topo picture. The descriptions are correct.
Sep 2, 2008
Make sure you are comfortable climbing well above run-out pro on 10a. I found the pro was not bad just few and far between as the Handren guide suggests.
I felt the description in the Swain guide was a bit more accurate with regard to the wandering nature of the route and following the obvious weaknesses. I climbed up down and over on a few occasions to find gear placement but it's there. I equalized nuts and doubled up where possible.
overall - a great heads-up route. I would not add a thing but it's certainly not a route for everyone. It may be a bad scene IF you fell; however, some routes are like that.