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Barber Wall
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Arete., The 
Big Deal Rock Climb 
Black Crack 
Black Lung 
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Double Vee 
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Hatful of Hollow 
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Kim Jung Il 
Layton's Ascent 
Lichen Delight 
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Medusa 
Nomad Crack 
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Upper Refuse 
Webster's Unabridged 
Youth Challenge 

Black Lung 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: H Barber, D Cilley, F Dean 10/1/1979
Page Views: 5,374
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 22, 2007
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Me leading black lung right before the really fun ...

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Description 

If this route would just go on forever, my life would be complete. The flow of movement and aesthetics on this climb are great. The only problem is the it's only 100ft long. For a great climb of a consistent grade, climb Bombardment(5.8) to Black Lung, to Final Gesture (5.8), an awesome link up.

For Black Lung, start up easy ground. It's maybe 5.6 for the first 2/3 of the route. Follow cracks and jugs to a pretty right-facing corner/crack. Move through a technical crux, which consists of 5.8 jamming and finding the somewhat hard to locate feet (mostly out right). This will leave you at the first belay on Upper Refuse (5.5).

Belay from here, or run all the way to the top of Refuse with a stretch of a 60m rope. It's also possible to finish up Final Gesture which is a fave of mine.


Location 

Black Lung is on the far right hand side of the Barber Wall Ledge--just right of the ramp start of Upper Refuse and left of the Book of Solemnity.


Protection 

Regular rack.



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Alex high up on Blacklung...
Alex high up on Blacklung...
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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 1, 2008

This route is quite good and well protected but, PLEASE place gear near the top , I have seen several whips and some injuries when leaders rush the end and don't place gear.

By Tuxebo
From: Middletown, RI
Sep 1, 2008

This crack is a lot of fun and only a little bit of pain. Unless you forget to place gear at the crux, only to discover you couldn't pull it. Ouch.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 28, 2008

This is a great route. Another fun link-up of sorts is Bombardment (5.8) to Black Lung (5.8) to Upper Refuse (5.5), it is a lot of fun, there is a little "wandering" to get to each route but a very fun way to the top.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 28, 2008

I like to finish up Final Gesture, a little more commiting but super fun at about the same grade as Bombardment and Black Lung...

By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

An awesome route with good rests, hand jams everywhere, and easy gear. Might be a good one to break into the grade on.

By Evan1984
Nov 9, 2009

Been on this twice and chickened out and hung both times before easily pulling the crux.

My advice is to protect the crux from the stance. Then,do as I say, not as I do. Sack up and pull the move. It's over quickly. I can get a great #3 BD down a little low in the crux and a 1/.75 from the stance.
Just make sure to protect it.

EVan

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 9, 2009

Evan, were you on this route yesterday?