Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Durrance Approach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black-Jones Direct T 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 
Centennial 
Direct Southwest T 
Double-Edged Blade T 
Durrance T 
Fritz's Fantasy S 
interesting problem below, The T 
Late for Dinner T 
Liken Lichen T 
Lovely Liana T 
Manifest Destiny T 
P.O.T.C. T 
Pseudo- Wiessner T 
Rangers Are People Too T 
Sundance T 
Wiessner T 

Black-Jones Direct 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown FFA Steve Jones, Carol Black 7/7/79
Page Views: 488
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on May 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A steep, clean fingercrack in a dihedral with a short thin section requiring tip-locks or a big reach. The walls of the corner are smooth and largely devoid of features, making for some committing stemming. At about 2/3 height, Manifest Destiny traverses into this corner and the crack widens to fists with some chockstone moves interspersed. This line doesn't seem to receive much traffic, but stays surprisingly clean.


Location 

Between POTC and Manifest Destiny on the right side of the SW face. Two cracks left of the Leaning Column on Durrance.


Protection 

Finger cams (blue-orange TCU with emphasis on yellow) and stoppers. 2 #3 camalots and maybe a new #4 for the top wider bit.



Comments on Black-Jones Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sean Nelb
From: Grand Junction, CO
May 10, 2011

This route and the ones around it have morning shade. The routes here, Lovely Liana, POTC, Black-Jones, and Manifest Destiny are all close together, can be gotten off of with a single 70 m rope and some 4th class downclimbing, never have traffic, and are high quality. Hang out with the folks lining up for Durrance and make them jealous as you climb pitch after pitch while they sit around.