Black-Jones Direct  5.11b

409 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Unknown FFA Steve Jones, Carol Black 7/7/79 Submitted By:  Trevor Bowman on May 28, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A steep, clean fingercrack in a dihedral with a short thin section requiring tip-locks or a big reach. The walls of the corner are smooth and largely devoid of features, making for some committing stemming. At about 2/3 height, Manifest Destiny traverses into this corner and the crack widens to fists with some chockstone moves interspersed. This line doesn't seem to receive much traffic, but stays surprisingly clean.

Location 

Between POTC and Manifest Destiny on the right side of the SW face. Two cracks left of the Leaning Column on Durrance.

Protection 

Finger cams (blue-orange TCU with emphasis on yellow) and stoppers. 2 #3 camalots and maybe a new #4 for the top wider bit.