This surprisingly good route has some of the smallest holds I've pulled on at Little Si-and some of the strangest bolt locations, at least at the beginning. Extended crux sequence with some pretty tough moves leads to airy moves over a roof and then to an anchor. The slick 5.10 runout that used to guard the start has since been tamed with another bolt.
Up from the main section of the wall is a shorter section of wall. This route begins just left of The Bad Guy, a 5.11b/c that starts at a single ring bolt anchor. It climbs past a bolt and then an obvious left facing feature at its start.
Bolts. The first and second bolts are oddly located (lower than they should be). The anchors used to be just bolts with hangers; it is possible to traverse left to chains on Scott's Dairy Freeze and with some shenanigans clean the other anchor. Chains would probably be a nice addition if they haven't been added already.
Sep 2, 2013
I've heard this route has been rebolted but haven't actually verified this. If so, it should be a worthy addition anyone's low 5.13 ticklist at World Wall.
|By Ben Gilkison|
Jan 30, 2014
Yes, Jonah retro bolted the start. So now, it is safer and doesn't require a rack of one piece. Thanks Jonah! A neglected classic. Hard 13a.
Jul 15, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
The anchor is now equipped with chains and biners. Thanks Jonah for adding the bolts at the start! Really fun sequence to get over the roof. Felt V7ish to me.