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Black Hole 
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Black Hole 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: P1: Tony Puppo & Grant Schumacher - February, 1995
P2: Tony Puppo & Joe Rousek - 1994
Page Views: 873
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 31, 2006
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Description 

Black Hole is a long, intimidating, and above all, pumpy route. It begins on the west-facing wall just right of the main buttress of the Solarium at an obvious bolted crack on the face. Climb up a weird little chimney and pull onto the face -- occasionally using the crack for the left hand but generally using face holds. This section ends at a huge ledge with a two-bolt anchor making it a nice pitch in its own right, but it is definitely not easy for 5.10. No bother, because you didn't come here to climb a vertical 5.10, you came here to climb a ridiculously steep 5.12. Put a VERY long sling on the anchor (or skip or backclean this clip) and head up the overhanging headwall. There is a tough section just past two round hueco-like holes where the climb steps up and left, then cuts back right (straight up is possible but very hard), but overall it's the pump that earns this climb the rating.


Protection 

16 draws. Make sure you have a 70m cord.



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By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 31, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

There are midway anchors on this route, which give the climber several options for doing the route. The 1st pitch can be done on its own and is 11c, while the 2nd pitch is 12a, and can be approached via the 1st pitch or slightly left via Focus (5.11a). Lastly, the route can be done as the rope stretcher described.

By JamesLucas
Jan 20, 2012

pretty cool route. flux Capacitor is just as good- steeper and a little pumpier but not much harder.

By Neil Rankin
From: Greensboro, NC
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Right before I sent it, I broke a foothold at the top and took a huge ride. It's noticeably harder to do it in one long pitch.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 16, 2014

The Lewis guide says 10b to the ledge???