Black Hole 

Fun route, unfortunately the holds through the thin middle section are pretty wet right now. Bring a towel or you'll have to use some pretty bad holds to get through that section (or cheat over left to the crack).

in contention for A.F.'s greasiest route

Ken are you kidding? I think you like to hear yourself arugue. That route is SO greasy, are YOU sure you are talking about the same climb?

How do you equate my opinion that the route didn't feel greasy with arguing? The crimps at the crux are nice and crisp, and the big holds above aren't bad at all. And, yes, I am talking about the correct route.

Although I only gave it one star, I didn't think it was very greasy compared to other 5.10's at American Fork.

Getting greasier, but still a good route. The bolts are a bit spaced towards the top.

I loved it but compared to some ratings in big cottonwood I think its a 5.9+ ten is stretching it and IM a 5.10 climber , but it is very greasy.

Vertical Country - Black Hole

I thought this climb was ok. the bolts were a little sketchy the closer and closer to the top you got. and wheen climbing the bottom on a lead, i felt like if i fell i was going to bounce off the basically stair sized ledges below me. each ledge is about 12 inches wide. other then the kind of shity bolting i thought it was a pretty fun climb, lots and lots of false chalk on thius climb. get to the top and look down

I'm not sure what all the hate is about. Sure some of the footholds were greasy, but I didn't feel like they were much worse than a lot of other AF routes. I thought the moves were really reachy and fun to great pockets. The foot work was trick as I tried to avoid the crappy, slick feet. For what its worth, I and everyone who did the route in our group had a really fun time with it.

Fun, interesting 5.10a. The 5.10 climber should be aware of ledges and climb with caution.

Hey Andrew & Brennan:

If you don't like the bolting I did, please let me know how it's properly done...I'm willing to listen. For now, the route is what it is. For 20 years people have been climbing this route without whining about it. Some AF routes simply have sporty bolting. If you don't like these kind of routes, stay away from them.

Haha, anyone who complains about the bolt spacing on this needs to climb up LCC.