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El Dorado
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Black Gold 
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Black Gold 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Anytime!
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: John Knight on Mar 7, 2010
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Description 

This 3 bolt route is probably the best route at Cabrillo. Great views, great exposure, good length (about 70') and mostly clean rock. For many, the crux may be getting up to clip the first bolt. To clip the first bolt, step up high on the ramp (left of the climb) then do a little traverse right on a small ledge to get to the bolt. Tall people may find it easy to clip while shorter people may find it a serious runout. The climb is also a bit runout (but easy) between bolts 2 and 3.


Location 

There are two bolted climbs on the El Dorado formation. This climb is the one on the right. There's an anchor with rap rings at the top for descending. All bolts were replaced a few years ago and in good condition.


Protection 

Bring 3 draws plus a couple long slings for the anchor.



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By Matthew Geyer
Mar 12, 2010

A great route indeed, and considering the area it's arguably a classic, but it's not "a serious runout" no matter one's height.

By Floyd Hayes
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R

As a precaution I placed a cam in the crack on the right in the start. Didn't need it!

By Bryan Carroll
From: Los Osos, CA
Nov 29, 2011

Great route, a must-lead if in the area. The crux is well protected and if any apprehensions are present during the runout between bolt 2 and 3, you can bail right to substantially easier ground.