Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mystical Mountain Zone
Select Route:
Black Gate 
Cirith Ungol 
Fractured Fairy Tale 
Gollum's Stairwell 
Horner's Corner 
Jack Be Nimble 
Mother Goose 
Ode to a Newt 
Old Number Nine 
Over the Rainbow 
Oz Before The Wizard 
Sisyphus 
Swords of Zanzibar 

Black Gate 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 448
Submitted By: Burgess Norrgard on Nov 5, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

(from the Falcon Guide) "In the world of the verticle, how can something so horizontal be so troubling? 12' right of the overhang is a thin crack, just left of a large talus block. Up the crack, traverse slightly left, then up to the top"

Beautiful climb! It is a very thin finger crack first going up 40-50ft: First ascends a small left facing corner, then to open face crack, then to a larger right facing corner. The route then traverses to the left following a wide and positive horizontal crack, then continues up the crux a narrow seam/crack up an over a roof topping out another 20 ft up. Falcon Guide rates it 5.10a... but I think in reality it's closer to an 5.11 or upper level 5.10 (pin scar, pinky finger jams). Go out and climb it and decide for yourself!


Location 

Left of the Cithril Ungol... just left of the the gully up to top of "Jack Be Nimble", etc...


Protection 

Smaller pro... small nuts, cams no bigger than a #1 camalot (if that), as I recall. BD C3's/ Aliens would be very handy. I believe it would be a challenging lead, but I'm more than certain that it has been done.



Comments on Black Gate Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -