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Sunny Side
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Black Dwarf 
Black Friday 
Black Hole Sun 
Casual Slander 
Dark Matter 
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Don't Tell Trevor 
Galactic Cannibalism 
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Hippy's at Bat 
Jerry's on Deck 
Jesus Wore Tevas 
Keystone Arete 
Lefty's Paradise? 
Lunar Orbit 
Mickey Mantle 
Minnie's in the Hole 
Moses Had a Stick Clip 
Noahs Ark 
Nuclear Decay 
Objective Reality 
Oh My Heck 
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Oh Shit  
Particulate Matter 
Right Aaaarm!!! 
Solar Eclipse 
Standing on Faith 
Unknown 5.8 
Unknown Reality 
Volcanic Therapy 

Black Friday 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Marty and Gordon Larsen
Page Views: 402
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 18, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: The route.
Closed March 15 through June 30 MORE INFO >>>


Start up the slabby opening bit, clipping the first bolt on the way. Stand up as it steepens and clip the second bolt. Find some obvious holds, and work out how to get past the blankness to the tantalizing, obvious hold above.

After figuring it out, enjoy the pockets to the top.


Immediately left of Keystone Arete, climbs the face between that route and the dihedral to the left.

Keystone Arete is a ways left of where the trail meets the Sunny Side wall; it's fairly distinct because of the bulging overhang with a sloping shelf below it.

(Just look at the picture.)

Note that this route doesn't appear in the Goss guidebook.


5 bolts, chains (shared with Keystone Arete, to the right).

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By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Feb 18, 2012

I suspect if you have four or five inches more reach than me this won't feel nearly as hard as it did to me.

Although most of the route felt .10a or easier, I had to really crank on a small, painful hold with the smallest of footholds to reach the next really positive hold.

By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

My son Marty and I bolted this line. We called it "Black Friday" as that was the day we bolted it and red-pointed it. Good face climbing with a distinct crux and easy finish. We were surprised that this section of Black Rocks had not yet seen a route as it is a natural face climb on one of the sunny side buttresses. We originally thought it might be 5.10c but would welcome a consensus rating.

By the professor
Jan 6, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Agree with Perin above: the crux 5.11 move involves a small sharp edge with minimal feet.