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Sunny Side
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Black Dwarf S 
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Black Friday 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Marty and Gordon Larsen
Page Views: 611
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: The route.

Closed March 15 through June 30 MORE INFO >>>


Start up the slabby opening bit, clipping the first bolt on the way. Stand up as it steepens and clip the second bolt. Find some obvious holds, and work out how to get past the blankness to the tantalizing, obvious hold above.

After figuring it out, enjoy the pockets to the top.


Immediately left of Keystone Arete, climbs the face between that route and the dihedral to the left.

Keystone Arete is a ways left of where the trail meets the Sunny Side wall; it's fairly distinct because of the bulging overhang with a sloping shelf below it.

(Just look at the picture.)

Note that this route doesn't appear in the Goss guidebook.


5 bolts, chains (shared with Keystone Arete, to the right).

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By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Feb 18, 2012

I suspect if you have four or five inches more reach than me this won't feel nearly as hard as it did to me.

Although most of the route felt .10a or easier, I had to really crank on a small, painful hold with the smallest of footholds to reach the next really positive hold.
By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

My son Marty and I bolted this line. We called it "Black Friday" as that was the day we bolted it and red-pointed it. Good face climbing with a distinct crux and easy finish. We were surprised that this section of Black Rocks had not yet seen a route as it is a natural face climb on one of the sunny side buttresses. We originally thought it might be 5.10c but would welcome a consensus rating.
By the professor
Jan 6, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Agree with Perin above: the crux 5.11 move involves a small sharp edge with minimal feet.
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