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Hear My Train A Comin' Boulder
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Black Finger T,TR 
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Black Finger 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 15'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,449
Submitted By: mschlocker on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: Black Finger (5.10a)

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Small boulder with a finger sized crack running through a black streak. Climb faces the road. The climb is very continuous but not very long.

Location 

Just up the road from Hear My Train boulder (~50'). Get there from a trail by Hear My Train or go to the next trail up the road from the Hear My Train exit.

Protection 

Bolted TR. Could probably lead on thin gear or solo as it is not too high. Walk around right to set up TR.


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By G.McCay
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Black Finger is 5.10b since I first stepped foot on Woodson back in '81. It's sequency nature and crux account for that.

Gary
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 2, 2007

Either 10a or 10b works for me. I originally got the 10a rating from a copy of your book. Thanks, it is historically interesting.

...reference Keith Brueckner's guide at: illusiondweller.blogspot.com
By Jesse Davidson
From: san diego, ca
Oct 22, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

i thought it was easy until i tried to lead it... makes it a lot harder, for me anyway. 10b.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Aug 28, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I fell into the same trap. "It's short, gotta be 10a." I led it onsight, but it made me work for just about every foot. I TR'ed it after and it was just as hard. So I'll throw my 2cents in and call it 10b.
By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Oct 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I give it a 5.10a because no matter how many times I climb it (as the boulder problem it should be), it doesn't get easier, always cussing at it and having to get my hands in it a couple of times before I can commit to the send up top... awesome climb!
By Adam Burch
From: San Dieger
Oct 13, 2014

Is the little slopey ledge 2/3 the way up on the right "off" on this thing?

Also, where do you guys think the crux is? I thought it was trying to pull over the very top, couldn't find good feet, but fingers were locked.
By Sdm1568
From: Ca
Oct 24, 2014

I'm not sure if the slopey thing is off or on, I've heard it both ways. Either way there is quite a bit of chalk on it : ) The crux for me is pulling over the top, poor feet is the culprit.