This was one of the coolest climbs I have ever had the pleasure of, ahem, toproping. Begin this climb uphill from Land of Ra in the second gully from the left on Cadillac Crag. This route starts out on a thirty foot arete and then breaks left and follows a magnificent black face for 150 feet to a two bolt anchor.
This climb begins with some 5.9+ up the arete then breaks left on 5.10 climbing to a stance almost in the gully. Break out of this stance and follow the delicate and extremely technical crux past four bolts, 4 or 5 .11+ moves in a row. From here continue up the beautiful face situated at an unidentifiable angle on 5.10 climbing into another .11c/d crux near the top. The guidebook states there is a .12b move at the last bolt, but it looks nearly impossible and is easily avoided by moving right then back to the anchors. This is a beautiful and sustained pitch.
Bring a #0.5-sized Camalot for the middle of the route. 11? bolts.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 1, 2001
Yes there is a 12 move at the top. the seq is not obvious, but if i remember there is a small left hand crimp with a long reach to a half-pad two-finger sloper...sounds good huh? Rossiter puts up fun routes...
|By richard magill|
Oct 2, 2002
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thin, committing, and a bit scary.