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Cadillac Crag
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Auburn Court 
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Black Face 
Brand New Cadillac 
Deviant 
Easy Street 
Emission Control 
Escalade 
Ghetto Cruiser 
Gonzo 
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] 
Highway of Diamonds 
Highway Of Ra 
Ichiban Arete 
Land of Ra 
Let it Vee 
Midnight Trundler 
Moonlight Drive 
Shallow Dihedral 
Stargate 
Trail of Tears 
Twistoflex 
Untitled, The 
V3 
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny 

Black Face 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter
Fixed Hardware: 10 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,205
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Apr 15, 2001
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This was one of the coolest climbs I have ever had the pleasure of, ahem, toproping. Begin this climb uphill from Land of Ra in the second gully from the left on Cadillac Crag. This route starts out on a thirty foot arete and then breaks left and follows a magnificent black face for 150 feet to a two bolt anchor.

This climb begins with some 5.9+ up the arete then breaks left on 5.10 climbing to a stance almost in the gully. Break out of this stance and follow the delicate and extremely technical crux past four bolts, 4 or 5 .11+ moves in a row. From here continue up the beautiful face situated at an unidentifiable angle on 5.10 climbing into another .11c/d crux near the top. The guidebook states there is a .12b move at the last bolt, but it looks nearly impossible and is easily avoided by moving right then back to the anchors. This is a beautiful and sustained pitch.


Protection 

Bring a #0.5-sized Camalot for the middle of the route. 11? bolts.



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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

Yes there is a 12 move at the top. the seq is not obvious, but if i remember there is a small left hand crimp with a long reach to a half-pad two-finger sloper...sounds good huh? Rossiter puts up fun routes...

By richard magill
Oct 2, 2002
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Thin, committing, and a bit scary.