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Good Medicine Area
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Black Elk 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Baldwin, 91
Page Views: 4,934
Submitted By: Lee Gitlin on Jul 31, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (88)
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Ellie on Black Elk. Great climb!
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Black Elk is a good enough reason to drive all the way down the Mirror Lake Hwy and take the 20 min hike to the Ruth Lake Crag. It has an interesting, balancy beginning, followed by a bouldery crux, onto an exposed face. The rock has good friction, the holds are positive, and the pro is place a safe, sane distance.


Protection 

New, well-placed bolts, spaced about 8 feet apart. Very safe and bomber.



Photos of Black Elk Slideshow Add Photo
Clay on Black Elk.
Clay on Black Elk.
Fun climb!
Fun climb!
This is where the fun really starts
This is where the fun really starts
Steve Clipping Bolts awkward beginning
Steve Clipping Bolts awkward beginning
black elk 5.10a ***
black elk 5.10a ***
Comments on Black Elk Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
Jun 22, 2008

fun sustained climbing with a nice "pump crux" from the last bolt to the chains and a good rest before the last 4 bolts.

By Bad Sock Puppet
Jul 26, 2008

An enjoyable climb. Move up small arete to right of roof. Stem your way through the recess in the wall. Take a break on the middle on a large ledge. Crux is at the top where you follow an off-width slopey crack. There are good holds, but be prepared to make boulder moves to get them. A challenging 5.10a. Great view!

By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Aug 19, 2008

I agree that this is a challenging 5.10a. Long route! Lots of fun! The headwall that makes up the second half is the best part.

By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 10, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good sport route to climb on gear sans bolts. Takes decent smaller cams, 2-3 C3 and .3 to 1, and nuts well. Just to add a little spice to your life.

By Brandon Ashby
From: Kamas, UT
Aug 27, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

An absolute blast, might be my favorite climb. Navigating the mini chimney to the pumpy head wall is just fantastic. Highly recommended!