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BETA PHOTO: Black Dynamite.
The crux is right where it looks like it is near the ground. Start up the crack and pull the bulge via flaring hand and finger jams. Gain a nice hand crack above and continue until the route meets up with the Standard Route
Put this route together with Dreams of Far Away Places
for a nice multipitch.
Edit: You can also downclimb the first pitch of Standard Route
, or rap off a chockstone (bring gray webbing).
This is located between Standard Route
and Sweet Sunday Serenade
. Start just right of a pine tree at a black stained, slightly overhanging face split by a bulging finger crack.
Standard trad rack: small pieces to wide hand pieces.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
May 21, 2012
Anybody know what the route to the right of Black Dynamite is? It's got a slab start, under a roof, with 2 bolts and then you pull a little bulge above and right of the crux on Black Dynamite. There's a 2 bolt anchor at about 80 feet. We did the Black Dynamite crux and then did the rest of this route on the right to be able to finish at the 2 bolt anchor, because we didn't think there was a fixed anchor on the Standard Route to easily use. Seemed like a decent way to climb Black Dynamite because above the crux looked really easy and slabby and the thing to the right offered steeper, and harder, climbing.