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Sunny Side
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Black Dwarf 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tupper
Page Views: 854
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 20, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Ben is at the top of Sungrazer (5.8), but this is ...
Closed March 15 through June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is located on the sunny side about 5 feet to the right of where the trail joins the wall. Start on a detached flake and make a high 1st clip. The crux involves long reaches around a bulge. Good footwork is key.


Protection 

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By EricD
Jan 18, 2006

This is definitely a tough 5.9. Reachy, edgy holds over a bulge. A fall on this route could be pretty bad.

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I say .9++

By Justin S
Nov 12, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

You can make the start more challenging by avoiding the pocket far to the right, which is somewhat off route anyways. Makes the climb for sure harder than a 5.9.