Black Crack 5.12c
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| Type: | Trad, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Peter Croft |
| Season: | sun |
| Submitted By: | camhead on Nov 7, 2011 |
| |
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Description Obvious splitter crack that cuts through the headwall between Boomerang and Corner Pocket. Climb the first four bolts of Corner Pocket (there is gear available the whole way if you prefer to skip bolts), then move left into a broken fingercrack, interspersed with lots of jugs. At the base of the final headwall, make a slightly heady and very exposed traverse right to the steep splitter, which is mostly perfect fingers. After the splitter ends, bust slightly right again through dirty jugs, to anchors at the very top of the cliff.
Location between Boomerang/Push and Corner Pocket
Protection You can use everything from a 0 tcu to a 3 camalot, but the bulk of this route is .4 camalots/yellow Metolius/yellow Aliens. Six of that size would not be too many. And slings. Lots of slings.
By camhead
From: The Old Northwest
Apr 9, 2012
| Although I added this route a while back after checking it out from Corner Pocket, I only recently got on it this past weekend. It is really good, and comparable to South Nuttal's Luv Nothing for straighforward, steep, burley cracks; it's seriously one of the NRG's best 5.12 splitters. The first 2/3 of the route are easier than it looks, but the pump builds for the headwall splitter, with way more exposure than you would expect on a singe pitch. |
By Sam Stephens
Sep 25, 2012
| To say I got my ass whooped may be an understatement, but this line is COOL!
Got on the other week and had some pump management issues followed by a dirty crack at the top that I couldn't lock into. Those are my excuses.
Really though, it's hard, but really good. |
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