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 ADVANCED
First Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andoullie S 
Ben Dunne T 
Black Crack T 
Boomerang S 
Corner Pocket S 
Creature S 
Cross Eyed and Blind S 
Eye of Mordor S 
Floaters S 
Lady Punk S 
Lamda S 
Push S 
Sausage S 
Superman S 
Toymaker S 
Typical Situation S 
Vignette S 
West Virginia Two-Step S 
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Black Crack 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Peter Croft
Season: sun
Page Views: 507
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 7, 2011

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Description 

Obvious splitter crack that cuts through the headwall between Boomerang and Corner Pocket. Climb the first four bolts of Corner Pocket (there is gear available the whole way if you prefer to skip bolts), then move left into a broken fingercrack, interspersed with lots of jugs. At the base of the final headwall, make a slightly heady and very exposed traverse right to the steep splitter, which is mostly perfect fingers. After the splitter ends, bust slightly right again through dirty jugs, to anchors at the very top of the cliff.

The first 2/3rds of this route isn't so bad but the pump builds for the headwall!

Location 

between Boomerang/Push and Corner Pocket

Protection 

You can use everything from a 0 tcu to a 3 camalot, but the bulk of this route is .4 camalots/yellow Metolius/yellow Aliens. Six of that size would not be too many. And slings. Lots of slings.


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