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Otter Cliffs
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Black Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,537
Submitted By: Nathan Z on Jun 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Black Crack, Acadia National Park

Description 

Fun timing with the tides leads to fantastic and varied climbing. Liebacking, tricky problem solving through the roof, and crack climbing, or at least some stellar jams.


Location 

rappel in, south of the haystack. Obvious, gaping right facing corner


Protection 

Standard Rack, good gear



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By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Jul 17, 2008

Apparently Black Crack and two nearby routes are now gone. Heavy seas brought down a bunch of rock. Hopefully this link will work: www.newenglandbouldering.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5502>>>

By Echoinfi
Jul 20, 2008

This climb is gone now. It was very dangerous because of loose rock, the new version looks like it will be good once it is clean.

By adam wibby
Aug 17, 2009

just for a fun fact this climb fell down not due to seas or nothin really, just time. it literally fell in the middle of a calm summer night. and when it fell it was a block about the size of half a school bus. it took razor flake an amazing 11d RIP.

By Jeremy Corson
From: Northwood, New Hampshire
Jul 25, 2010

What's interesting about this route is that it's still bring ticked off pretty regularly. Guess I will find out if it exists this week when I go!

By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 23, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Awkward, slick and felt downright dangerous leading it, in it's post-rockfall condition.

By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jun 30, 2014

Funny to read about the rockfall... I had no idea! We set a top rope on this one and all the members of my group, 6 of us, agreed that this was a great climb. 5.8 still seems right on.