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La Selva (Jungle Wall)
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Black Cat Bone S 
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Black Cat Bone 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 9 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ed Wright & Dane Bass
Page Views: 4,544
Submitted By: Stich on Dec 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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BETA PHOTO: Main routes on Jungle Wall. Photo taken February, ...

Description 

As with other Jungle Wall climbs, the first pitches are straight forward exercises in light crimping and nice hueco pulling. The 4th class scramble pitch in the Garden of Bleedin' breaks up the vertical. The crux is the part right before the overhang. Thin, crumbly rock makes getting to the larger holds on the overhang more difficult than it at first appears. Surmount the actually easier overhang and then you come to another very fun and unique pitch. There are deep dihedrals that completely block out your left/right view of the canyon. This pitch was my favorite. A few more pitches later and you are at the summit ridge. Rappel the route the same way you came up using the same belay stations.

Pitches:

1. 5.9
2. 5.10b
3. 5.6
4. 3rd class through Garden of Bleedin'
5. 5.9 flakes, start of long, black streak
6. 5.10 big roof
7. 5.10d
8. 5.10b dihedral pitch
9. 5.9 to ridgeline

Location 

Locate the large overhang to the right of Space Boyz and follow the blank path through the chopped out cactus down. For all I know, it's name may be painted at the first bolt now. Ha.

Protection 

14 quickdraws usually works for most routes in the Potrero. A single 60 meter rope is the minimum length you should climb on here.


Photos of Black Cat Bone Slideshow Add Photo
At the 5 pitch belay station of BCB. Awesome view!
At the 5 pitch belay station of BCB. Awesome view!
Red line is Black Cat Bone (after roof, line is ap...
Red line is Black Cat Bone (after roof, line is ap...
The route far left is Space Boyz. The route on the...
The route far left is Space Boyz. The route on the...
Top of the last pitch
Top of the last pitch
Detail of the roof.
Detail of the roof.
The "garden of bleedin'" gun sight for t...
The "garden of bleedin'" gun sight for t...
The Summit!
The Summit!

Comments on Black Cat Bone Add Comment
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By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 2, 2008

Some people just climb the roof and the dihedral and rap, avoiding the last pitch after that.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A fun varied route thats worth getting on for sure. There are bolts everywhere you need them and the raps are pretty clean for Potrero. Be careful on the loose rock sections.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 26, 2010

I like limestone. Well, I like good limestone. Didn't care for the potrero, should have gone to El Salto.
By Morgan F. Smith
From: Bryan, TX
Dec 8, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Rapping with a 70m rope was close on two occasions! The 10's up top are all awesome climbs, sooo much fun! Especially the dihedrals above the crux pitch! Last pitch is pretty runout so climb if you dare! Summit is worth it!
By Dylan Weldin
From: Austin, Texas
Dec 24, 2014

My partner and I climbed this with an uncut 60m rope. On two of the rappels we were far short of the anchor resulting in some complications on descent. Save yourself the headache and please use a 70m rope for this route.
By Phill T
Dec 25, 2014

can confirm, single 70m rope will get you down just fine. Felt like the '10d' roof was pretty sandbagged, if well bolted. Link the two after the roof crux for a fun long pitch! Great route!
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Dec 25, 2014

Phil, you thought the roof was harder than 10d? I thought the thin face climbing before the roof is the crux, but that was some time ago.