As with other Jungle Wall climbs, the first pitches are straight forward exercises in light crimping and nice hueco pulling. The 4th class scramble pitch in the Garden of Bleedin' breaks up the vertical. The crux is the part right before the overhang. Thin, crumbly rock makes getting to the larger holds on the overhang more difficult than it at first appears. Surmount the actually easier overhang and then you come to another very fun and unique pitch. There are deep dihedrals that completely block out your left/right view of the canyon. This pitch was my favorite. A few more pitches later and you are at the summit ridge. Rappel the route the same way you came up using the same belay stations.
4. 3rd class through Garden of Bleedin'
5. 5.9 flakes, start of long, black streak
6. 5.10 big roof
8. 5.10b dihedral pitch
9. 5.9 to ridgeline
Locate the large overhang to the right of Space Boyz and follow the blank path through the chopped out cactus down. For all I know, it's name may be painted at the first bolt now. Ha.
14 quickdraws usually works for most routes in the Potrero. A single 60 meter rope is the minimum length you should climb on here.
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 2, 2008
Some people just climb the roof and the dihedral and rap, avoiding the last pitch after that.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A fun varied route thats worth getting on for sure. There are bolts everywhere you need them and the raps are pretty clean for Potrero. Be careful on the loose rock sections.
From: Oakland CA
Jul 26, 2010
I like limestone. Well, I like good limestone. Didn't care for the potrero, should have gone to El Salto.