Black Castle  5.11a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Chris Hubbard, Brian Spiewak, Shannon Scott (2005) Season:  Cooler months Submitted By:  mschlocker on May 7, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>> Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates! ACSD Access and Nesting Advisories Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Four star sport route right up the center of the headwall of El Cajon Mt, El Cap Wall. Climb up steep rock to a roof. Pull through the roof onto more steep climbing above. A very "soft" 5.11. Mildly pumpy with mostly positive holds. Mental crux is the roof but technical crux actually occurs higher up when the pump starts to set in. Wild position on the headwall with steep yet straightforward climbing and an unusually "fun" roof give this climb two thumbs up. Rap anchor at top.

Location 

Just right of Tears of Envy (5.11b), use anchor just down and right of Tears anchor. Starts at the left of the wide vertical black streak at the headwall and finishes up in the right side of the streak. Look for the black roof about 1/3 of the way to the top out anchor which is visible from the start of the climb.

Unnamed route #58, which is actually drawn as #63 in the 10/2005 SDCC guide. Shown as project "P" in the Rock and Ice 9/2005 issue. Reach anchor via the supply line from the command center ledge.

Protection 

Bolts, rap anchor with steel 'biners.