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 ADVANCED
Center/Headwall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Being and Nothingness S 
Black Castle S 
Center Direct T 
Commander, The S 
Diamond of San Diego S 
Halcyon S 
Right as Rain T,S 
Spitfire T 
Storm T,S 
Swiftness Direct T,S 
Swiftness, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Black Castle 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Hubbard, Brian Spiewak, Shannon Scott (2005)
Season: Cooler months
Page Views: 1,538
Submitted By: mschlocker on May 7, 2006

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Description 

Four star sport route right up the center of the headwall of El Cajon Mt, El Cap Wall. Climb up steep rock to a roof. Pull through the roof onto more steep climbing above. A very "soft" 5.11. Mildly pumpy with mostly positive holds. Mental crux is the roof but technical crux actually occurs higher up when the pump starts to set in. Wild position on the headwall with steep yet straightforward climbing and an unusually "fun" roof give this climb two thumbs up. Rap anchor at top.

Location 

Just right of Tears of Envy (5.11b), use anchor just down and right of Tears anchor. Starts at the left of the wide vertical black streak at the headwall and finishes up in the right side of the streak. Look for the black roof about 1/3 of the way to the top out anchor which is visible from the start of the climb.

Unnamed route #58, which is actually drawn as #63 in the 10/2005 SDCC guide. Shown as project "P" in the Rock and Ice 9/2005 issue. Reach anchor via the supply line from the command center ledge.

Protection 

Bolts, rap anchor with steel 'biners.


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By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
May 22, 2006

This climb is 10a.
By Matelich
Sep 11, 2007

This climb and "Tears of Envy" have been chopped.
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 11, 2012

Tears of Envy is now bolted, Black Castle appears to still be chopped.
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 24, 2014

Rebolted, thanks guys!