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Black Bluff

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Black Bluff - North Face 
Black Bluff - Upper Face 
Black Bluff - West Face 
Short Crag 
Southside Overview Crag 

Black Bluff Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,200'
Location: 34.22574, -116.98685 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,619
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Jun 24, 2011
Forecast:
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Description 

This remote and wild crag sits on the edge of the mesa west of Bluff Mesa Group Camp. The crag probably has one of the best outlooks of any crag in Southern California, with spectacular views across Bear Creek to Hwy 18 (Arctic Circle section), all the way to Mount Baldy. The rock is granite, about 80 feet high, with predominantly crack climbs, a number of which are very fine indeed. This coupled with the wildness, and the outlook makes it a very worthy destination.

A perfect counterpoint to Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

Getting There 

From Big Bear Lake take Mill Creek Road which turns into Forest Road 2N10 for about 3.5 miles to a Tee in the road and make a right on 2N86 following it until it splits off left on a smaller dirt road (2N86A) to Bluff Mesa Group Campground. Park before you reach the campground, if you don't you'll get a lot of people staring at you, and maybe even asking you leave "their" campground.

Walk through the campground to it's western edge and start looking for either a cairn, or a plastic sign post (like the Joshua Tree Access Fund types) - once you find this you'll be set, carefully follow cairns and posts to a wide gully on the edge of the mesa which will lead down the slope and left to the bottom of the crag, it's about 1.5 miles following the cairns and wandering past many a likely candidate for good bouldering.

Be warned that's it's easy to get lost on the mesa, check your way there and be very aware of your surroundings. Some people have placed a set of cairns which run south to Siberia Creek, if, on the way back to the campground, you hit a trail next to a creek you've gone the wrong way and will need to back track.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

27 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',5],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Black Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Bluff:
Scratch and Sniff   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Black Bluff - North Face : Black Bluff - N. Face (Righ...
Black Bart   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Black Bluff - North Face : Black Bluff - N. Face (Righ...
Arctic Circle Jerk   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Black Bluff - North Face : Black Bluff - N. Face (Righ...
Aurora Borealis   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Black Bluff - North Face : Black Bluff - N. Face (Righ...
After the Fire   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Black Bluff - North Face : Black Bluff - N. Face (Righ...
Big Juan   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Black Bluff - Upper Face
Black Beard   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Black Bluff - North Face : Black Bluff - N. Face (Righ...
Social D   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Black Bluff - North Face : Black Bluff - N. Face (Righ...
Shooting Star   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Black Bluff - North Face : Black Bluff - N. Face (Righ...
Slap and Tickle   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Black Bluff - West Face
Powder Finger   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Black Bluff - North Face : Black Bluff - N. Face (Righ...
Black and Tan   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Black Bluff - West Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Bluff

Featured Route For Black Bluff
Rock Climbing Photo: Nelson Day getting into that chicken wing jam with...

Black and Tan 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Black Bluff - West Face
Boulder up to a high first bolt just above a small overlap/roof and tackle the tricky seam which splits the face. Thin and continuous movement throughout....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Black Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: railroad gin v0 FA. JOE DE LUCA
railroad gin v0 FA. JOE DE LUCA
Rock Climbing Photo: Black bluff
Black bluff
Rock Climbing Photo: GPS Coordinates 34.219833,-116.992667 Start of the...
GPS Coordinates 34.219833,-116.992667 Start of the...
Rock Climbing Photo: You cant miss the cairns.....
You cant miss the cairns.....
Rock Climbing Photo: ;)
;)
Rock Climbing Photo: about 1 mile into the hike and passing several Cli...
BETA PHOTO: about 1 mile into the hike and passing several Cli...
Rock Climbing Photo: A portion of the trail to Black Bluff, Big Bear So...
A portion of the trail to Black Bluff, Big Bear So...
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the cairn trail to the climbers trail
Follow the cairn trail to the climbers trail
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the turnoff for the Bluff Mesa Group Camp ...
BETA PHOTO: This is the turnoff for the Bluff Mesa Group Camp ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Descend down this gully then to the left to get to...
BETA PHOTO: Descend down this gully then to the left to get to...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Ant Boulder near Bluff Mesa CG, Big Bear South
The Ant Boulder near Bluff Mesa CG, Big Bear South
Rock Climbing Photo: As you get into the trail that is lined by beautif...
As you get into the trail that is lined by beautif...
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Bluff
Black Bluff
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Baldy from Black Bluff.
Mount Baldy from Black Bluff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Turn right onto 2N86 at this Tee in the road to re...
BETA PHOTO: Turn right onto 2N86 at this Tee in the road to re...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arctic Circle as seen from beneath Black Bluff.
Arctic Circle as seen from beneath Black Bluff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail marker on the way to Black Bluff,  San Berna...
Trail marker on the way to Black Bluff, San Berna...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Nomi standing underneath the West Face.
Scott Nomi standing underneath the West Face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool Dino formation a stone's throw from Railroad ...
Cool Dino formation a stone's throw from Railroad ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bluff Mesa Group Camp, Big Bear South
BETA PHOTO: Bluff Mesa Group Camp, Big Bear South
Rock Climbing Photo: South Shore Trail Network, Big Bear South
BETA PHOTO: South Shore Trail Network, Big Bear South
Rock Climbing Photo: v4 FA. Joe De Luca
v4 FA. Joe De Luca
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Bluff from Hwy 18, Big Bear South
Black Bluff from Hwy 18, Big Bear South

Comments on Black Bluff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jun 10, 2013
This place is home to some of the best climbs I have done in the Big Bear area. Excellent view, great quality rock, and numerous excellent trad lines make this definitely worth the hike, which is also beautiful.
By Jeff Botimer
Jun 25, 2013
One of the best climbing spots in the San Bernardino Mountains. Beautiful location and great rock make this the best spot in the big bear area in my opinion.
By CAC
Aug 22, 2015
Great small cliff, can climb most the routes in a day. All routes have rappel anchors so you only need one 60M rope for this cliff. Morning shade, only partial sun in the afternoon, never really got too hot.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Sep 27, 2015
Went here for the first time last week. Probably the best crag I'ved climbed at in Big Bear area. Crag isn't hard to find once you spot the cairins from the parking area. The trail is heavily marked with plenty of cairins to get you to the right spot.

trail beta: You will eventually hit a logging road with a climbing sign right before it. Head left on the logging road passing another climbers sign into a huge open field. Pay attention of cairins and head straight through the open field and slightly left going up the next hill. You will be about 10 minutes from the crag once you hit the open field
By Camron
Jul 10, 2016
The crag is west of the campground. Just keep walking west following the cairns and climbing access signs.

  • **The GPS coordinates for the crag are incorrect. Do not use them!***

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