Black Beauty  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  KC Baum and Jody Hawkins 10/2/88 Submitted By:  Matthew Seymour on Jun 7, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Start up the black, stained face following a shallow, fractured, and flaring, crack system. There are two bolts near the bottom of the climb. Continue up the face protecting in the occasional slot that appears. Climb up to where the crack seams out. At this point, you stem upwards between the small, right-facing dihedral on the left and the seam on the right. Continue stemming until the dihedral ends and you can reach left to the top of a pillar and mantle to it. Finish with face and fingers to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor.

It is recommended that you move right and climb Acropolis, a beautiful, hand crack that starts at this level on the wall, as a second pitch.

The pro on this climb is interesting, safe, but interesting. I kind of wondered why the bottom, where the climbing wasn't that hard, had bolts, but the middle section, where the pro is more difficult does not.

Location 

On Hidden Valley Wall there is a large drainage gully in between Obe Won Canobe and The Never Ending Story. There are several high quality climbs in the gully.

Black Beauty is on the left hand wall of the gully starting on a black, stained face, look for bolts.

Protection 

Two bolts, small to medium nuts and cams. TCUs are very helpful. Ballnutz might work well on this climb.