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> Motherlode Rock
> Motherlode Rock - E Face
Black Bart
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.5 from 34 votes
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Chris Miller & Rick Shull, 1989 |
Page Views: | 2,733 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | C Miller on Mar 14, 2007 |
Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Climb a vertical, black face with edges up and left past three bolts to a ledge, then continue up the slab above past two more bolts to a difficult crux that's not especially fun. Once past the crux, one more bolt of easy climbing leads to the top.
It's possible on the upper portion to cut left into the corner and stem your way up as you reach right to clip the bolts - this keeps the grade at 5.10 and makes the route more enjoyable.
* This was one of the first routes on the wall and originally had four bolts (the 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 6th) and no anchors, but was later retro-bolted to make it a better protected - unfortunately the crux remains unappealing.
It's possible on the upper portion to cut left into the corner and stem your way up as you reach right to clip the bolts - this keeps the grade at 5.10 and makes the route more enjoyable.
* This was one of the first routes on the wall and originally had four bolts (the 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 6th) and no anchors, but was later retro-bolted to make it a better protected - unfortunately the crux remains unappealing.
Location
Located just right of Motherlode and 10' left of Psychedelic Sluice, a low-angled, splitter hand crack.
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