Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Dry Creek Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Arrow T 
Dry Creek Spire T 
Happy Ending, The T 

Black Arrow 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 330'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Burcham, Zack Bastow
Page Views: 1,218
Submitted By: Mike on Jul 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Tim about to pull the crux on P3

Description 

P1: (5.9) A short pitch. Climb up and left past a couple bolts to the limestone band. Place a small-ish piece, the up and left to a bolted belay.

P2: (5.10) Up and left to a hand crack. Up the crack to a bulge with a finger crack. Climb this (crux) to a nice crack above, then slightly left to a bolted belay.

P3: (5.9/5.10) Continue up a nice hand crack to a roof. Traverse left under the roof to a bolt, which protects a reachy move (maybe height dependant?) then up & left to a bolted anchor.

P4: (5.10-) Work up and right through a crack, then left to a bolt, then up to a bolted belay.

Location 

Starts about the middle, at a couple bolts going up & left to the limestone band. The first belay bolts are visible from just down & left of the start of the route.

Protection 

A few small cams, doubles through #3 camalot, slings & a couple quickdraws.


Photos of Black Arrow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Catherine leading pitch 1 of Black Arrow with Mann...
Catherine leading pitch 1 of Black Arrow with Mann...
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Arrow.
BETA PHOTO: Black Arrow.
Rock Climbing Photo: Manny leading the second (crux) pitch of Black Arr...
Manny leading the second (crux) pitch of Black Arr...

Comments on Black Arrow Add Comment
Show which comments
By E Kennedy
Apr 26, 2014

Beautiful route, but it gets a lot of sun. P2 is definitely the crux and most sustained. The bolt-protected moves on P3 are not a problem if you're short, as there are many reasonable options to pull pass the bulge.
By dsmit
From: Flagstaff, Az
Feb 5, 2015

Only one 70 meter rope needed for the rappels.
By SummitSender
Apr 8, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Warning Beta Info:
Hardest section is 10- at the hardest! Rest is 5.6 - 5.9
Single rack - red c3 to #3 double rack was way too much gear
1 70 meter
link 1&2 3&4 otherwise ur climbing 4 tiny pitches 15-35 feet each...
After the 4th pitch anchor is a huge bee hive up in crack so be warned.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 29, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awesome... a bit of everything packed into a relatively short wall. First few moves off the ground are surprisingly sporty, second pitch is stellar, third great as well with splitter crack. Three stars for varied movements, consistently great exposure, and memorable cruxes. Single rack up to BD #2 is plenty, and a single 70-m will get you down.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!