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Black Arch Arête 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: October 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,695
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 21, 2008

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Matt stepping out of the crack and onto the arete


Gorgeous dihedral to an improbable-looking outside corner, with a delicate crux move near the top.
Climb the dihedral about 50', stem out right onto the arête and climb up, passing two bolts, to the overhang. Ascend up the nose, step left to a hidden crack, then climb a short slab above, and either use the bolt anchor (70m rope required!), or climb through another (easier) overhang onto a large ledge.


At the shallow "cave" leading to a dihedral with a wide hand crack in it, near the outside corner of the main buttress.
Reach the cave via a short scramble up a chimney on to below & left of the route.


Full set of cams, an extra #2 & #3 Camalot. Leapfrog the large cams and consider taking a #2 up to protect the crux.
Note that the crux is well protected, but the pro is well beneath your feet before finishing the difficulties. The fall looks to be clean.

Photos of Black Arch Arête Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamie McNeill hits the crux moves of Black Arch Ar...
Jamie McNeill hits the crux moves of Black Arch Ar...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce Monroe tackles Black Arch Arête
Bruce Monroe tackles Black Arch Arête
Rock Climbing Photo: Will Roth scopes the crux runout.
Will Roth scopes the crux runout.

Comments on Black Arch Arête Add Comment
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By Jim Lawyer
Aug 15, 2010

Wow, what a varied line! -- a handcrack, then an arete, and finally and steep crimpy face. Can lower with a 70m rope. Super good!
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Nov 11, 2011

Super good is right.

I led this the other day. I was expecting it to be a horror show, but it's really not. You can load up the crack with gear, and the crux is really not that far above. Also, the climbing above it is really not that difficult compared to many 5.10b's in the park. Don't let all the comments scare you!

As a funny aside, as I placed a cam in the crux horizontal next to a rock lodged in there, the rock suddenly lept out. A huge toad launched by my face, catching enormous airtime, landing on it's back way below. I was sure it was dead, but when I went to check up on it, it hopped into the woods without any apparent issue.
By Will Roth
From: Saranac Lake, NY
May 17, 2012

Epic route! The crux move is a good ways above your gear. You can get one or more solid cams, around .75 BD, in the horizontal before going for the crux. I don't think that anyone has taken the whip here yet...I sure came close. It would be big!
By kenr
Aug 7, 2012

Great variety of moves in a great space (on top-rope).
Adding to the variety is the short "Adirondack obligatory awkward" chimney start.
By Lukasz Czyz
Aug 26, 2013

How can I give it five stars? Super good!

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