Black Arch Arête  5.10b PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  October 2008 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Jay Harrison on Oct 21, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jamie McNeill hits the crux moves of Black Arch Ar...

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Description 

Gorgeous dihedral to an improbable-looking outside corner, with a delicate crux move near the top.
Climb the dihedral about 50', stem out right onto the arête and climb up, passing two bolts, to the overhang. Ascend up the nose, step left to a hidden crack, then climb a short slab above, and either use the bolt anchor (70m rope required!), or climb through another (easier) overhang onto a large ledge.

Location 

At the shallow "cave" leading to a dihedral with a wide hand crack in it, near the outside corner of the main buttress.
Reach the cave via a short scramble up a chimney on to below & left of the route.

Protection 

Full set of cams, an extra #2 & #3 Camalot. Leapfrog the large cams and consider taking a #2 up to protect the crux.
Note that the crux is well protected, but the pro is well beneath your feet before finishing the difficulties. The fall looks to be clean.

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Bruce Monroe tackles Black Arch Arête