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Stately Pleasure Dome
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Black Angel 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Falkenstein and Don Reid, July 1979
Page Views: 2,974
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Racking at the base of Black Angel.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A good challenging lieback/finger crack climb. Bust a powerful, awkward move off the ground and continue underclinging, jamming, and liebacking the awesome right-angling crack to the top.

Location 

Just west of Stately Pleasure Dome. Park just east of the Murphy Creek picnic area. The route, a right-angling fingercrack/flake that intersects a prominent black streak, faces southwest and will be visible from the road.

Protection 

Lots of small stuff. I took:
Doubles from blue alien to .75 camalot
Single #1 and #2

There's no anchor on top, so bring 2 extra .75 camalots + 1 #12 BD Stopper for the anchor on top, + 3 long slings for extending the pieces over a blunt edge. If you're going to run laps, this makes a great TR anchor.


Photos of Black Angel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Hernandez (belayed by Marc Hill) leading &quo...
Mike Hernandez (belayed by Marc Hill) leading &quo...

Comments on Black Angel Add Comment
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By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Jul 6, 2015

This route is equipped with bolts and chains at the anchor. No need to walk-off.
By Kelly Rich
Jun 9, 2016

I suppose chains at the top are an improvement. It was a hassle to walk off. Still, something about adding bolts to an otherwise boltless climb; the climb certainly isn't as naturally picturesque and aesthetically beautiful.

In the first real TMeadows guide (the underground guide written by Alan Nelson), the route is the first one listed in the guide and is titled Black Angel of Death. Seeing that the name it now bares is given by the FA'ists/guidebook authors, I suppose Black Angel it is. Still, I wonder if a name-change was made early on, for one reason or another.

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