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Stately Pleasure Dome
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Black Angel 
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Black Angel 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Falkenstein and Don Reid, July 1979
Page Views: 1,522
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 21, 2008
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A good challenging lieback/finger crack climb. Bust a powerful, awkward move off the ground and continue underclinging, jamming, and liebacking the awesome right-angling crack to the top.


Just west of Stately Pleasure Dome. Park just east of the Murphy Creek picnic area. The route, a right-angling fingercrack/flake that intersects a prominent black streak, faces southwest and will be visible from the road.


Lots of small stuff. I took:
Doubles from blue alien to .75 camalot
Single #1 and #2

There's no anchor on top, so bring 2 extra .75 camalots + 1 #12 BD Stopper for the anchor on top, + 3 long slings for extending the pieces over a blunt edge. If you're going to run laps, this makes a great TR anchor.

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