This route has it all: steep ice, strenuous drytooling, and fantastic, narrow, icy runnels, all in a wild setting.
1) From the snowfield at the base of the raps, follow the rightmost corner. This starts as a turfy ramp and leads to a huge chockstone cave. Exit this cave on the right side with well-protected strenuous moves and follow the chimney to a spike belay after 160 feet or so, before the chimney steepens again, M5/6.
2) Continue up the steepening icy chimney to a ledgy system and follow icy runnels to the ledge below the prominent ice smear, 200 feet, M4 WI4R.
3) Climb the smear of ice, moving left where it splits. From the top of the thick ice, follow a chimney system through a final roof into an easy exit groove. A belay can be constructed below the final roof if rope drag or lack of gear necessitates it. WI 4/5 M5.
This route climbs grooves to the right of the Black Wall Gully (the gully on the left side of the Black Wall) to a nice, large, obvious smear. It may well be necessary to approach from Guanella Pass. Expect this to take about two hours. Do the Black Wall raps, and aim for the gully rather than the start of Good Evans
Screws, nuts, and a bunch of cams from small to #3 or 4 Camalot.
By Dougald MacDonald
Oct 20, 2014
You can also exit the cave on P1 to the left. Not sure if it's any easier, but at least you can see footholds. Decent pro (that #4 you may have carried for the right exit would prove useful on the left side too).