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Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T 
Bad Finger Couloir, The 
Bib (1st Apron), The T 
Black and White T 
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River 
Crystal Couloir 
Diamond Couloir 
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 
Goldfinger Couloir 
Iration T 
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T 
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte 
North Face Crag 
North Face Snowfield 
Northwest Couloir T 
Road Less Warren 
Road, The 
Shooting Star T 
Silhouette T 
Snave, The 
Snorkmaiden's Surprise 
Sunrise Couloir T 
Tike's Trike T 
Unsorted Routes:

Black and White 

WI4-5 M5-6

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 550', Grade III
Consensus: WI4-5 M5-6 [details]
FA: Perhaps T. Brown and B. Collett, October 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Autumn
Page Views: 1,324
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Oct 20, 2013

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Nearing the belay on pitch 1. Photo: Josh Thompso...


This route has it all: steep ice, strenuous drytooling, and fantastic, narrow, icy runnels, all in a wild setting.

1) From the snowfield at the base of the raps, follow the rightmost corner. This starts as a turfy ramp and leads to a huge chockstone cave. Exit this cave on the right side with well-protected strenuous moves and follow the chimney to a spike belay after 160 feet or so, before the chimney steepens again, M5/6.

2) Continue up the steepening icy chimney to a ledgy system and follow icy runnels to the ledge below the prominent ice smear, 200 feet, M4 WI4R.

3) Climb the smear of ice, moving left where it splits. From the top of the thick ice, follow a chimney system through a final roof into an easy exit groove. A belay can be constructed below the final roof if rope drag of lack of gear necessitates it.


This route climbs grooves to the right of the Black Wall Gully (the gully on the left side of the Black Wall) to a nice, large, obvious smear. It may well be necessary to approach from Guanella Pass. Expect this to take about two hours. Do the Black Wall raps, and aim for the gully rather than the start of Good Evans.


Screws, nuts, and a bunch of cams from small to #3 or 4 Camalot.

Photos of Black and White Slideshow Add Photo
Taylor seconding pitch 1. <br /> <br />Photo: Josh Thompson.
Taylor seconding pitch 1. Photo: Josh Thompson.
Taylor on the last pitch. <br /> <br />Photo: Josh Thompson.
Taylor on the last pitch. Photo: Josh Thompson.
The last pitch. <br /> <br />Photo: Josh Thompson.
The last pitch. Photo: Josh Thompson.
Runnels on Pitch 2. <br /> <br />Photo: Josh Thompson.
Runnels on Pitch 2. Photo: Josh Thompson.
Exiting the chimney on pitch 2. <br /> <br />Photo: Josh Thompson.
Exiting the chimney on pitch 2. Photo: Josh Thomp...
The crux of pitch 1. <br /> <br />Photo: Josh Thompson.
The crux of pitch 1. Photo: Josh Thompson.
Looking down the runnel.
Looking down the runnel.

Comments on Black and White Add Comment
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By Dougald MacDonald
4 days ago

You can also exit the cave on P1 to the left. Not sure if it's any easier, but at least you can see footholds. Decent pro (that #4 you may have carried for the right exit would prove useful on the left side too).