|Water Wall and Lower Areas
Black & Tan is a fun 5.10 climb on the Leaning Boulder/Water Wall.
Climb an easy start to a single hard move before clipping the first bolt (can place a cam first). Step right and pull on positive holds on a bulge/prow. Above, you'll turn a small roof and reach a technical face to one last bulge [had a fixed pin, now missing] before the chains.
The clean tan face to the left can be toproped at a slightly harder grade.
Black & Tan is the 3rd bolted line from the left end of Leaning Boulder Wall.
2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Bring a light rack of nuts and cams.
Jun 3, 2010
It's possible to get two pieces of pro before the first bolt (small cam then a medium stopper) and two before the second I usually place a number one (red) BD Camalot in the small right facing dihedral after the first bolt. Also the fixed pin is five inches long and still in good shape.
|By Sky Sjue|
From: Santa Fe
Jul 14, 2013
The pin is gone -- maybe for the best? My friend unfortunately weighted it and took an ugly fall when it popped while leading this pitch. I found a good finger-size cam placement to the right but its location makes it more logical to skip the last move directly through the roof. I had pulled my cam when I climbed the last bit and only had the piton clipped; had I fallen it would have been ugly for me instead.