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 ADVANCED
Water Wall and Lower Areas
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aussie Avalanche T 
Black and Tan T 
Black Streak TR 
Burt Crack T 
Comales Tamale T 
Dirty Corner T 
Easy Gully T 
Gothic Pillar T 
Gunky Monkey T 
Lean Green Machine T 
Open Books T 
Pure Vida T,S 
Skewed Right Up T 
Take the Plunge T 
Tranquilo T,S 
Unknown S 
Yellow Wall T 

Black and Tan 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jay Foley, Donna Longo and friends?
Page Views: 407
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Black & Tan is a fun 5.10 climb on the Leaning Boulder/Water Wall.
Climb an easy start to a single hard move before clipping the first bolt (can place a cam first). Step right and pull on positive holds on a bulge/prow. Above, you'll turn a small roof and reach a technical face to one last bulge [had a fixed pin, now missing] before the chains.

The clean tan face to the left can be toproped at a slightly harder grade.


Location 

Black & Tan is the 3rd bolted line from the left end of Leaning Boulder Wall.


Protection 

2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Bring a light rack of nuts and cams.



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By Jfoley
Jun 3, 2010

It's possible to get two pieces of pro before the first bolt (small cam then a medium stopper) and two before the second I usually place a number one (red) BD Camalot in the small right facing dihedral after the first bolt. Also the fixed pin is five inches long and still in good shape.

By Sky Sjue
From: Santa Fe
Jul 14, 2013

The pin is gone -- maybe for the best? My friend unfortunately weighted it and took an ugly fall when it popped while leading this pitch. I found a good finger-size cam placement to the right but its location makes it more logical to skip the last move directly through the roof. I had pulled my cam when I climbed the last bit and only had the piton clipped; had I fallen it would have been ugly for me instead.