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Black and Tan

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
??? S 
Beauty Pageant S 
Bed Head S 
Block Party S 
Breakin' the Law S 
Crime and Punishment S 
Da Riddler S 
Drunken Speed Fisherman S 
Dull Boy S 
Glutton for Punishment S 
Jumanji S 
Magic Carpet Ride S 
Minus Five S 
Pangs of Ignorance S 
Redolence S 
Resolve S 
Shades of Grey S 
Smoking Drum S 
Unknown, 5.11 S 
Unknown, 5.7 S 

Black and Tan  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,700'
Location: 37.0175, -113.8518 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,259
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 11, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Black and Tan (at roughly noon on March 5, 2007)

In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise


Black and Tan is composed of solid, rough, sharp limestone with black and tan stripes (surprise). If you fell on a lower-angled section you would either stick like velcro or be shredded (I recall someone describing it as climbing on tiny fishhooks).

The crag faces roughly east.

There are over 30 bolted routes here (32 named routes plus several projects in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah, 2nd Ed., plus at least one additional project and at least one other completed route not in the guidebook).

The routes are a good mix from 5.7 to 5.14 with the largest number in the 5.11 range.

Getting There 

From the Woodbury Road turnoff drive 3.7 miles (3.2 according to Goss). Shortly after crossing the fourth cattle guard the parking (and the crag) is on the right.

Climbing Season

Weather station 9.2 miles from here

20 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black and Tan:
Glutton for Punishment   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Redolence   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Crime and Punishment   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Beauty Pageant   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Resolve   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Magic Carpet Ride   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Shades of Grey   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Jumanji   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
???   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Da Riddler   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Smoking Drum   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
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By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Mar 11, 2007
Unfortunately I didn't spend much time climbing here. I was with my family, and the wife and one child were feeling kinda sick. In fact, we only got on one 5.7 (Glutton for Punishment). I wanted to do one more, but the sharp rock really spooked my kids. Here is the conversation between the 43-year-old father and his 17-year-old daughter as we pulled the rope:

Father: Gwen, wanna belay me on that 10a next to us?
Daughter: Uhhh...
Father: C'mon, it looks like a lot of fun.
Daughter: I don't know Dad, if you fall you'll get shredded...
Father: Oh, it's not so bad. Besides, I won't fall on a 10a.
Daughter: Dad...
Father (increasingly plaintive): C'mon Gwen, we drove all this way...
Daughter (refusing to feel guilty): No.

Hopefully I'll do more on a subsequent trip.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Mar 3, 2010
in about 20 years that one may come back to haunt ya gwen! LOL...

great post, great info: thanks
By Shawn Heath
From: Forchheim, Germany
Mar 3, 2014
This page would be a lot better if somebody added some more beta pictures to define where the bolt lines run. The guidebook is pretty out-of-date and incorrect, especially with the left side of the crag.
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