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Black and Tan 

5.13a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus: 5.13a/b [details]
FA: Gregg Purnell
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: gregg purnell on Jul 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Black and Tan.

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Description 

Lots of good moves if you like crimpers and sloper jugs. Very well protected, but still scary! You might like this. It is just left of the 2 cracks on the far right. Follows the "black and tan" stain up the slab.


Protection 

10 bolts with chains for the anchor*.



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By Chris Cavallaro
Apr 18, 2006

Is this route open yet? Where exactly is it on the wall?

By chris deulen
May 4, 2006

As far as I can tell it's been open for over 5 years. Though, I would put it more at 5.13b. Very slabby, with an insane one foot balance crux up to some weird slopey gaston, if memory serves. When you hike up to the Wall of the '90s, go up and right. Continue past 10 Digit Dialing and The Strange Iron Handle, down and around the corner. It is the next bolted line on the wall, and should have one or two steel links screwed onto bolts. Not sure if they're for bailing, or if someone chose them instead of a biner. The start is a bit chossy, and leads to a high first clip. If you start going up hill again and come to the furthest bolted line (Interstellar Overdrive) on the wall, you've gone too far. Good luck, this climb is stout!

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 16, 2008
rating: 5.13

I am sorry to report that this route is even harder now. I broke off two of the crux holds yesterday. One is the right-facing flake entering the crux below the lower clip, it is now a smaller almost undercling crimp. Yikes! This hold may not last long either.
Also, at the crux bolt, in the weird gaston dish, a small part of the smallest usuable two finger crimp broke off.

This may bump the rating a letter. It will still go, but I would put it at LEAST 13b now.

The footwork is insane on this route!

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 17, 2008

Has this ever been redpointed?

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Mar 17, 2008

It has been redpointed prior to the hold breaking at the crux.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 4, 2009

Got on this thing today on tr - whoooo! stiff! Couldn't pull the crux moves down low, between bolt 3 and 4, I believe. I couldn't even conceive of a sequence that would work, but I know it's there and I'll be back! The rest of the route was tons of fun, with improbable looking moves that leave you smiling, and screaming, all the way to the top.

Does anyone know if this has been sent since the holds have broken? I haven't given in yet, but I may need some beta in the coming weeks if things don't go well for me.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.13

Most likely has NOT been sent in its current state. Go get it, Jay!

BTW, what is your wing span?

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 6, 2009

LOL, good question, Darren; wingspan is 6'. I toyed with the idea of making the long reach, but I think I'm gonna have to give in and use either the gaston/dish or the micro-crimp underneath it. Gonna have to get up there and spend some time on that move, the other day it was getting dark and cold and didn't want to put my belayer through too much hell. Just out of curiosity, have you pulled the crux moves? Is there some beta floating around out there in the land of MP?

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 6, 2009
rating: 5.13

I came soooooo close making the crux moves on lead in its current state. Even with the wingspan, you still have to make a bunch of moves and not gain too much ground in order to hit the arete. PM sent....

I would give it 3 stars if the rest of the route was consistent, but as it stands, it's kind of a piss-hard one move wonder. And the rock is still pretty friable. The crappy footholds that you do get won't last that long either. Unfortunate....

By SteveZ
From: Arvada, CO
Jan 21, 2013
rating: 5.13b

I jumped on this yesterday after encouragement from Jay (from comments above) and found that it still goes without being absurdly hard. Maybe 13b or c? I'm 5'9", and reach wasn't an issue as I never went all the way out to the arete (until after the crux). Just terrible feet and hands to sort of balance your way through to the jugs. Not wanting to be too spray-y, just hoping to see people out putting this one away again! My beta was pretty straightforward, but if anyone's interested, I'd be happy to share. Also, the holds I used seem solid and unlikely to break again, which is nice if you're going to be putting the time in on it.

And I agree with Jay/Darren, the top of the route is really cool, but the crux is significantly harder than the rest. If you like your routes with legit cruxes, this may be a good one.