|The Gold Wall
Black and Sassy is one of the more obscure routes on the Gold Wall, but is fairly well protected. A nice steep boulder problem at the top guards the rim.
Start to the right of Standard Forks 5.8 at a wide section of crack. Figure out the face holds that lead you to a seam with some thin wires. Move up the seam until the angle drops a bit. Continue up the crack which leads to a steep bit of weird fingers and stretchy stemming with face relief!
Starts just right of Standard Forks 5.8
Small/medium wires, small/medium TCUs.
|By David Arthur Sampson|
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun route, not sure how well traveled. I found out Monday that you can leave your big gear on top; next time I will take: a #5 and, maybe a #4 Camalot for the start plus doubles to 0.75 Camalot (maybe triple yellow aliens- I place a lot of gear).