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 ADVANCED
The Gold Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack T 
An Uncertain Violence T 
Black and Sassy T 
Cactus Thieves T 
East Of Eden T 
Facial Distortions T,TR 
Gold Finger T 
Grievous Angel T 
Hatchet T 
Helter Skelter T 
King Fissure T 
Liquid Sky TR 
Pacing the Cage T 
Rushin' Arete T 
Standard Fork's 5.8 T 
Supercrack T 
T.L. Bush T 
Waterslip Down T 
X-it T 

Black and Sassy 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Larry and Tim Coats, Jim Haisley
Page Views: 630
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on May 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Black and Sassy is one of the more obscure routes on the Gold Wall, but is fairly well protected. A nice steep boulder problem at the top guards the rim.

Start to the right of Standard Forks 5.8 at a wide section of crack. Figure out the face holds that lead you to a seam with some thin wires. Move up the seam until the angle drops a bit. Continue up the crack which leads to a steep bit of weird fingers and stretchy stemming with face relief!

Location 

Starts just right of Standard Forks 5.8

Protection 

Small/medium wires, small/medium TCUs.


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By David Arthur Sampson
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route, not sure how well traveled. I found out Monday that you can leave your big gear on top; next time I will take: a #5 and, maybe a #4 Camalot for the start plus doubles to 0.75 Camalot (maybe triple yellow aliens- I place a lot of gear).