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Bitty Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A's Jax T 
Bitty Buttress T 
Buzz, The S 
Creeping Obscurity T 
Electricity T,S 
Holy Ascension T,TR 
Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye T 
Jaguary T 
Jam Left T 
Jitters, The S 
Lorax, The S 
Milk the Quartz for Pints T 
Moby Dike S 
Peach Monkey S 
Peapod T 
Return To Sender S 
Reveille T,S 
Right Crack or Last Crack (aka Mirage?) T 
Rise and Shine S 
South T 
Spins, The T,S 
Treetop Landing T 
Voices Carry T 
Welcome Home S 

Bitty Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.0018, -105.3869 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,932
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
This Afternoon

64° | 43°
Tuesday

69° | 46°
Wednesday

70° | 46°
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67° | 48°
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65° | 47°
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66° | 46°
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Approaching the crux on the Buzz. Photo taken by ...

  • 2016 Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Bitty Buttress has interesting rock with good features and lots of colorful lichen. The approach is a little longer hike than for Blob Rock, but it is well worth it.

    It is subject to raptor closures, so check before getting stuck with a hefty fine.

    A descent is possible by hiking off the backside of the rock to the NW, then down a gully to the East of Blob Rock.

    This is a small crag divided into 4 entirely distinct sections:

    L->R:

    Up & Left
    A. Moby Dike, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
    B. Leaping Lizards, 11+, 1p, gear & bolts.

    Peapod Buttress
    C. Treetop Landing, 9 PG-13, 1p, gear.
    D. Palm Saturday, 12, 1p, TR.
    E. Razor Hein Stick 12, 1p, bolts & gear.
    F1. Split Pea, 11+, 1p, gear & bolt.
    F2. Peapod, 11, 1p, 60', gear.
    G. Holy Ascension, 13- or A4, 1p, gear or TR.
    H. ??, 12, 1p, gear & bolts.
    I1. Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
    I2. Jaguary, 11 R, 1p, gear.
    J. Jam Left aka Left Crack, 9+, 1p, 40', gear.
    K. Right Crack, 10-, 1p, 70', gear.

    Main Buttress
    L. Welcome Home, 12, 1p, 40', 4 bolts.
    M1. Electricity, 12-, 2p, 150', gear & bolts.
    M2. A Day At The Crags, 8, 1p, gear, joins N.
    N1. A's Jax, 8, 3p, 200', gear.
    ? Return To Sender, 12-, 2p, 130', bolts.
    above N1. Zero Tolerance, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
    above N1. Moon Doggie, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
    N2. South, 7, 2-3p, 350', gear.
    O. Rob's Way, 9 R, 1p, var, joins P.
    P. Bitty Buttress, 8+, 3p, gear.
    above P. Final Roof, 8, 1p, var to 3rd p of P.
    Q. Orange Dihedral, 8, gear, joins P.

    Amphitheatre
    above R. Peach Monkey, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
    R. The Buzz, 12+, 1p, bolts.
    S. The Spins, 12, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
    T. Project, 14?, 1p, bolts.
    U. Roof, A3, 1p, gear.
    V. The Jitters, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
    W1. Rise and Shine, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
    W2. Reveille, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
    Y? Lorax, 13, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.

    Gully

    The Annex
    Z. Creeping Obscurity, 7, 1p, 200', gear.
    AA. Milk the Quartz for Pints, 9-, 3p, 270', gear.

    Getting There 

    Take a path that starts at a pullout on the N. side of the canyon, about 25m west of the pullout to Cob Rock. Hike up this well traveled trail to a fork that heads right. Stay on the trail until you're below Blob Rock. Continue heading East over a little hill, then down to the base of Bitty Buttress. The route "Bitty Buttress" starts above a fallen tree.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.1 miles from here

    24 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',3],['5.12',8],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Bitty Buttress

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bitty Buttress:
    Bitty Buttress   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Jam Left   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
    Right Crack or Last Crack (aka Mirage?)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Peapod   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Rise and Shine   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Return To Sender   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   
    The Buzz   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    The Lorax   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bitty Buttress

    Featured Route For Bitty Buttress
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce Hildenbrand at the crux on the third pitch.

    Bitty Buttress 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress
    This is a great line up the exposed and interesting buttress.P1: Start at the low point by a fallen tree and head straight up the crack systems. The exact route is probably the line of least resistance, but many variations are possible. This is the longest pitch and the best of the three. Belay on a big ledge.P2: Take the corner to the right and crank up the large dihedral.P3: Continue up the right-facing dihedral. The technical crux occurs after #2 Friend placement. This is your last plac...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Comments on Bitty Buttress Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 31, 2016
    By Greg Kneser
    Jan 2, 2003
    I feel that the best pullout for Bitty Buttress/Blob Rock is the one just past the pullout for Cob Rock and on the North side of the road. There are earlier pullouts with access to somewhat steep gullies where rockfall is easy and where it might hit your car or the road, neither one a good situation.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 29, 2003
    The sheltered ampitheater above and right of the Bitty Buttress Route, between The Buzz and The Lorax, is called The El Cap Ampitheater in Rolofson's guide. I've also heard it called The Hot House, probably because it radiates and holds so much morning sun. It's possible to climb here in mid-winter even when it's too windy on Blob. Looks like more routes(?) have gone in here lately. Anyone know what the old aid route is that goes out the big overhang?
    By Dmitriy Zinchenko
    Jul 7, 2004
    If you park just past Cob (like Greg K. suggested) beware the poison ivy that litters the first leg of the approach trail. I've found that passing below the Rock w/3 Cracks is a little easier of a trail if you're going to the fallen tree.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 8, 2010
    Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Boulder Canyon
    www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/
    Contact: Maribeth Pecotte, (303) 541-2500

    Boulder, Colo. (April 2, 2010) – The Forest Service has reopened some climbing areas in Boulder Canyon that were closed to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

    Security Risk and the Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress areas are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along State Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

    These closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Although these areas are being reopened, the Forest Service anticipates reinstating the closures in future years, to allow the eagles to choose their nest site without being disturbed.

    The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31. Signs will be posted at key access points into the areas remaining closed. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will continue to monitor the areas.
    For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreation/r....
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jan 26, 2012
    From Bev Baker, Wildlife Biologist, Boulder Ranger District:

    Boulder, Colo. (January 25, 2012) – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.
    These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

    Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea... (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 15, 2012
    From Bev Baker, USFS wildlife biologist:

    U.S. Forest Service to reopen most climbing areas in Boulder Canyon

    www.fs.usda.gov/arp
    Contact: Boulder Ranger Station Visitor Information Services,

    (303) 541-2500

    Boulder, Colo. March 15 – This Mon., March 19, the U.S. Forest Service will reopen Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon. The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31, 2012.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jan 30, 2013
    From the USFS:

    Boulder, Colo. (Jan, 30 2013)– The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.

    These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

    Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea... (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Feb 3, 2014
    From Bev Baker:

    Date: Feb. 3, 2014

    BOULDER, Colo. – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests implemented its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon on February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

    These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea... (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. It is against Federal and State law to disturb any nesting bird of prey.

    The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence. “Closures in Boulder Canyon are vitally important to protect one of only a handful of known golden eagle nesting territories in Boulder County. Their specific habitat needs limit what areas they can use for mating and fledging their young,” said Sylvia Clark, Boulder District Ranger. Contact Boulder Ranger District at 303-541-2500 for more information.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jul 29, 2014
    From Bev Baker, USFS Wildlife Biologist:

    BOULDER, Colo. – The Boulder Ranger District of the Roosevelt National Forest will lift the golden eagle climbing closure for the Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress climbing areas in Boulder Canyon on July 31.

    For the most current closure information, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit the website at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/recrea....
    By George Bracksieck
    Nov 17, 2015
    "Up & Right" is really up and left. Moby Dike is the leftmost route on the whole Bitty complex.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jan 31, 2016
    From Bev Baker, FS Wildlife Biologist:

    Seasonal closure in Boulder Canyon protects nesting birds of prey

    BOULDER, Colo. – To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service will be implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2016. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

    Effective through July 31, 2016, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    “These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier,” said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.

    The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

    Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/activity/arp/recre....

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