|S-Curve - Upper Wall
Climb an easy corner and around the right side of a pinon pine to the bottom of the steep face. The first bolt is about 30 feet off the deck. Cruise past the first three bolts with a few mantles and good footwork, clip the fourth bolt and chalk up for the slopers. Pulls on slopers get you to the lip, stand up and pull over the lip (not as easy as it sounds). There is another sizeable gap between the fourth and firth bolts, but the climbing is easy. Climb up a corner under the roof and traverse left to the sixth bolt. Undercling with your fingertips, get your feet up to a lieback stance and throw over the roof into a fingerlock before you fall, then reach for the jug under the final roof. You can clip the anchors from this stance. I suppose you could pull the last roof for an airy finish, but I was super pumped already. The rock quality is great, though a little dirty in places. Bite the Wall felt harder than Black Monday (not as steep, but a lot more technical).
Just left (West) of Skyscraper (5.8), behind a pinon pine tree growing out of the rock.
6 bolts to a 2 chain anchor.
|By Aaron Livingston|
From: Moab, UT
Feb 22, 2013
STAY AWAY!! Covered in bees, there is a long slab just before the crux which hides you from your belayers line of sight and drags your rope over a sharp edge. The extended belay also creates alot of slack. Combine these factors and if you take a fall in the crux like I did you will deck on the slab and tumble to the edge of it. Absolutely terrifying not even close to worth your time.