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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Asphodel T 
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Bitchy Virgin T 
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Bitchy Virgin 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, 1954
Page Views: 2,215
Submitted By: adrenalated on Jun 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


This moderate gets a reasonably good review in the Dick Williams Trapps Guide, but I wasn't a huge fan.

The route starts just past the Guide's Wall area, and left of the large Dis-Mantel block, at a large right-facing corner capped with overhangs.

P1: Climb the large right-facing corner past a small, sketchy tree. Just before the corner ends at the large overhang, traverse left out onto the face to a semi-hanging belay. 5.5, 80'.

P2: Diagonal up and right above the overhangs until directly below a large tree on the GT Ledge. Then climb basically straight up the thin face to juggy terrain. Belay off the tree. 5.5, 80'.

The easiest descent is to rappel with two ropes from the tree on the GT Ledge. You can make it down with one 60m rope from this tree, but it requires an angling rappel to a second anchor. You can probably find an easier rap by traversing the GT Ledge in either direction.


Standard Gunks rack. Pitch 2 is protected by small-medium cams and tricam placements that are sometimes difficult to find; if you find yourself getting runout, look around more.

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By Spiro
Nov 25, 2007

did the first pitch (followed)and it wasnt that fun. imo.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 28, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Crappy rappel and scarey PG/R-ish runout on the second pitch keeps the stars down, however the climbing is good. Excellent roof to finish the second pitch.
By Valerie Bachinsky
From: West Sand Lake, NY
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

Loved the first pitch. The second pitch had a scary run-out. Found myself in a difficult spot as I was wandering to find gear. Ended up about 15 feet above my last piece which was a white tricam! Definitely felt that I was in a 'cannot fall' situation. Not for the beginning 5.5 leader...don't be lured by the G-PG rating in the book.
By kswissto
Oct 17, 2013

I'd say R protection unless you're okay with using aid pieces for trad.
The climbing is great; pro, not so much.
By ebmudder
Sep 20, 2015

Definitely link both pitches with a 70. 2nd pitch is 5.2-5.4 straight up to the GT Ledge/tree. No rope drag if you protect before stepping left onto the arete, then skip the first belay and continue back right above the roof and straight up to tree.

Rap down to slings above gully on climber's right (not the slings for the first belay).
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