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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Bitchy Virgin 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, 1954
Page Views: 1,692
Submitted By: adrenalated on Jun 5, 2006
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  • Description 

    This moderate gets a reasonably good review in the Dick Williams Trapps Guide, but I wasn't a huge fan.

    The route starts just past the Guide's Wall area, and left of the large Dis-Mantel block, at a large right-facing corner capped with overhangs.

    P1: Climb the large right-facing corner past a small, sketchy tree. Just before the corner ends at the large overhang, traverse left out onto the face to a semi-hanging belay. 5.5, 80'.

    P2: Diagonal up and right above the overhangs until directly below a large tree on the GT Ledge. Then climb basically straight up the thin face to juggy terrain. Belay off the tree. 5.5, 80'.

    The easiest descent is to rappel with two ropes from the tree on the GT Ledge. You can make it down with one 60m rope from this tree, but it requires an angling rappel to a second anchor. You can probably find an easier rap by traversing the GT Ledge in either direction.


    Protection 

    Standard Gunks rack. Pitch 2 is protected by small-medium cams and tricam placements that are sometimes difficult to find; if you find yourself getting runout, look around more.



    Comments on Bitchy Virgin Add Comment
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    By Spiro
    Nov 25, 2007

    did the first pitch (followed)and it wasnt that fun. imo.

    By Kevin Heckeler
    From: Upstate New York
    Jul 28, 2011
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13

    Crappy rappel and scarey PG/R-ish runout on the second pitch keeps the stars down, however the climbing is good. Excellent roof to finish the second pitch.

    By Valerie Bachinsky
    From: West Sand Lake, NY
    Jul 29, 2011
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a R

    Loved the first pitch. The second pitch had a scary run-out. Found myself in a difficult spot as I was wandering to find gear. Ended up about 15 feet above my last piece which was a white tricam! Definitely felt that I was in a 'cannot fall' situation. Not for the beginning 5.5 leader...don't be lured by the G-PG rating in the book.

    By kswissto
    Oct 17, 2013

    I'd say R protection unless you're okay with using aid pieces for trad.
    The climbing is great; pro, not so much.