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Church Bowl
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Aunt Fanny's Pantry 
Bishop's Balcony 
Bishops Terrace 
Bitches' Terror 
Black is Brown 
Book of Revelation 
Church Bowl Chimney 
Church Bowl Lieback 
Church Bowl Terrace 
Church Bowl Tree 
Deja Thorus 
Energizer 
Haley's Little Warm-up 
Jacob's Ladder 
More Balls Than Brains 
Parkay Squeeze 
Pole Position 
Revival 
Shomer Shabbat 
Tammy Fae 
Uncle Fanny 
Walk On the Water 

Bitches' Terror 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Walt Shipley & Eric Kohl - 1990
Page Views: 697
Submitted By: Osprey on Mar 2, 2010
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Description 

This is a well protected Shipley & Kohl route. It can be accessed by climbing Bishop's Terrace halfway before traversing left to the belay ledge which is the start of the route. Another option is to climb Bishop's Terrace to the top of pitch one and rappel to the base of the route.

Clip bolts and pull on enjoyable edges. The crux move is just above the 7th bolt, and a wild .10d section under a roof finishes this climb off with excitement. Definitely worth the trip back to Churchbowl!


Location 

This is the Bolted line left of Bishop's Terrace. From the top of the climb, rap twice with one rope to reach the ground.


Protection 

Take 11 quickdraws.



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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 14, 2011

Fun alert!

This climb, which I don't think gets done nearly as often as adjacent lines, delivers. Do it: you won't regret it. The 5.11 crux is short, and the 5.10+ topout airy and thrilling. One of the best in the neighborhood.

By Simon W
Feb 17, 2014

Definitely a full value climb here!

I don't know about the crux being short bit though, maybe in terms of overall vertical length, but the sequence had 4-5 tricky moves in a row with the most committing section with the bolt at my feet. That said, the fall is pretty clean as long as you come off in control.

The moves to the anchor are steep and fun, but everything down low is off-vertical and techy.

Rapping from the fixed nut and bolt at the base of the climb with a single 60M cord gets your feet to a ledge 2 feet off the ground.