Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Mail 
Barbie Doll Arete, The 
Bit by Bit 
Clean Dan 
Coffee Break with Joe 
Cold Turkey 
Coniferous Types 
Crazy Fingers 
Cruising Lane 
Detour, The 
Doc's Little Brother 
Dr. Michael Solar 
Duh Dihedral 
Early Bird Special 
Fine Line 
Fork in the Road 
Formula, The 
Funeral March 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) 
Hang Ten 
Highway 61 
Inverted Vee 
Iron Pony 
Kubla Khan 
Lady Fingers 
Lunar Avenue 
Lunar Lander 
Masterbator's Edge, The 
Milk and Honey 
Milk Dreams 
MRJR (aka MB III) 
Pool of Blood 
Positively Fourth Street 
River Of Darkness 
Road Narrows 
Sign of the Cross 
Snail Mail 
Terminal Velocity 
Texas Two-Step 
Three Lane Highway 
Toprope Right of Formula 
Trip Itch 
Willow World 
Working Class Hero 
Zap Snack 
Zip Code 

Bit by Bit 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Mark Hammond
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 4 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 918
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Jan 1, 2004
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment 

This might be Steve Levin on an ascent on Sat. Oct...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This is a fun, challenging route that takes the hanging arete to the right of Inverted Vee (just right of the Parallels/Foxtrot area of the W. Ridge.) Similar to Aerospace but it's a bit harder and uses the arete more. Great rock. Mark Hammond got the first redpoint.

Either belay on the ground or scramble 25 feet to a good ledge and belay. NOTE: If you belay on the ground, the leader must rappel! You cannot lower from the top with a 60-meter rope if you belay on the ground! A doubled 60-meter rope just reaches the good ledge.

Climb the first 40 feet of Inverted Vee (awkward 5.8), protected with wires and hand-sized cams. From a wide stem, clip the first bolt on the face to the right. From the second bolt, move right to the arete and climb past two more bolts with very tenuous moves and clips. The moves are definitely harder than the clips, but it's all hard, thin, and [balancy]. The major difficulties end at a big stance. Continue up the arete past two more bolts, then move around to the right. Stem rests are possible on the chimney wall to the right, but the chockstones can (and probably should) be avoided. Anyway, the climb moves back left on a narrow, hanging slab past one more hard move at the last bolt. You'll find the anchor over the huge roof.

Remember: You MUST have a 60-meter rope to get down from this anchor (or two ropes), and your belayer must be at the ledge if you lower off!

Pitch 2: Climb the short arete and face up and right from the anchor. (You may want to move the belay up for a more comfortable stance.) Fun and somewhat spicy 5.8 or 5.9. RPs necessary. Probably R-rated.To descend, scramble down to climber's left (descender's right) to find a big tree with slings around it. A short rap with a swing to the right gets you back to the bolted anchor. Most people will do just the first pitch.


Small rack of wires and hand-sized cams for the start. 8 bolts. RPs if you do second pitch.

Comments on Bit by Bit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2004

This is a really good route. I climbed the face directly following the bolts, rather than moving right to the arete as described above. Kudos to Dougald and Mark for putting this route up- it must have been quite an effort rigging the ropes from above.

By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Apr 24, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Did this last weekend and thought it was excellent! Great exposure, intricate slab climbing in spots, and an exciting finish. The crux may be clipping the 4th bolt from an insecure stance on the arete. Felt like 5.11d to go straight up the arete, slightly right of the bolts, which is the way I went and seems to be the most compelling line. Watch out for the loose blocks up high right of the last bolt, just before the anchor.

By Jimmy Farrell
From: Lexington, KY
Mar 16, 2012

Like Steve, I was also compelled to climb the face directly following the bolts. Honestly, I couldn't figure out a way to traverse out to the arete. This climb is an extremely technical, beautiful face that makes me remember why I love Eldo so much.