Bishops Terrace 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | FA: Russ Warne, Dave McFadden, and Steve Roper, December, 1959 FFA: Chuck Pratt, Herb Swedlund, 1960. |
| Submitted By: | Salamanizer on Oct 11, 2006 |
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Keith leading up the first pitch
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The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
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Description Start up and right of the main church bowl area. This is the classic double crack seen from the road. One of the best 5.8's in the Valley.One pitch ends at a sloping ledge. Rap from the bolts on top.
Protection Cams .5"-3"
Keith almost at the top of the second pitch
| BETA PHOTO: The white streak is the upper half of Bishops Terr...
| Kris just below top dual cracks
| BETA PHOTO: Bishop's Terrace enjoying a rare moment of solitud...
| The optional belay on bishop's terrace. I remember...
| best crack ive ever handed
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| Comments on Bishops Terrace |
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By Josh Hibbard From: Los Angeles Area, CA Mar 26, 2007 rating: 5.8
| This is a very fun climb and very popular. The second pitch was more enjoyable for me all around. A must do if you are climbing in Yosemite and can't make it up the big walls (like me...). |
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Jul 21, 2007
| Pitches 1 & 2 can be linked into one fantastic 195' pitch. |
By Sirius From: Oakland, CA Jul 23, 2007
| Agree with Mike Morley - much better climb done as one pitch. |
By RockMonkey From: Concord, CA Sep 18, 2007 rating: 5.8
| Doing it in one pitch is the way to go...just remember to trail another rope (2 - 60M are needed) for the rappel. |
By armando fimbrez From: rancho cucamonga Feb 27, 2008
| Did this in one pitch. The hand crack at the top is awesome. the view is breathtaking! |
By vincent L. Mar 2, 2008
| In order to reach the actual bishop's terrace, and the good little aid crack that goes through the roof of bishop's terrace, go directly right from the anchor atop the bishop's terrace route. Then head up an easy crack to gain the right side of the terrace. From here the terrace slopes down to the right. What i used to do, is do this second pitch as I described, and then rap off the anchors that are on the far right side of bishop's terrace. Here you only need one rope to rap to the ground. Something to think about if you only have one rope, or if there is a party anxious to start up the route and you do not want to make them wait further by rapping the route. |
By tooTALLtim From: Boulder, CO Jun 9, 2008
| How do you call this one of the best 5.8's in the Valley!?!??! This is nowhere on par with Nutcracker. |
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 17, 2009 rating: 5.8
| Do it in one pitch |
By Ian G. From: PDX, OR Feb 9, 2010 rating: 5.8
| I've seen not one but two people get their knees stuck on this climb and have to be rescued. Apparently they let blood pool in the upper leg which subsequently perma-cammed the knee in. It looked really painful. |
By bergbryce From: South Lake Tahoe, CA Apr 21, 2010 rating: 5.8
| I also recommend doing it in one pitch. The hoard of people at the base will appreciate that ;-) While it's a fun route, I didn't find it mind blowingly good. I would recommend taking some big gear. I only had one 3" and wish I had a 4" as well. |
By Wesley Ashwood From: Durango, CO Aug 2, 2010
| I had a #4 camalot with me and used it. Though you could probably get away without it. |
By Scott Reed From: Bozeman, MT Sep 18, 2010
| Great route. Use gear sparingly on the lower, easier sections to assure you have pro for the upper portion of the climb. |
By aliebling Oct 17, 2010
| "Use gear sparingly on the lower, easier sections to assure you have pro for the upper portion of the climb." What Scott said. When done as one pitch (which is fantastic) and leading near your limit, be sure to keep some gear for the end or you will be facing some exciting climbing above protection...ask me how I know :) |
By Ken Trout From: Golden, CO Feb 1, 2011
| FIRST ASCENT: Russ Warne, Dave McFadden, and Steve Roper, December, 1959. FIRST FREE ASCENT: Chuck Pratt, Herb Swedlund, 1960. |
By Mark P Thomas From: Oakland Feb 7, 2011 rating: 5.8
| It is not necessary to use the alternate start to do the 5.7 OW variation, despite how it appears in SuperTopo. The alternate start sucks in several ways compared to the standard start. I don't see any reason to use it unless you're climbing with a 50m rope. |
By Rodger Raubach Mar 14, 2011 rating: 5.8
| Marvelous crack climbing; spectacular! Solid at 5.8. Takes all the pro you would ever need--or want. |
By Ryan Justen From: St. Paul, MN May 18, 2011
| This is one of the best climbs I've done. Nice sustained 5.7ish climbing with some 5.8 moves. I brought doubles from .5 to 3 with one #4 (optional 3rd #2) C4's. Bring lots of slings for down low. One pitch is really fun! (60m rope works fine as long as you trail one for the rappel) |
By rafael From: Berkeley, CA Sep 19, 2011
| if you only have one rope, you can rap to skiers right, where there is an anchor consisting of a bolt and a fixed nut, slung with a bunch of weathered webbing and rings, from here a 60 barely reaches to the first ledge, and a 70 reaches the ground. |
By Yosemitesam Dec 29, 2011
| From the anchor, one 70m rope barely reaches (tie knots!) the big tree you see about 30ft up the route. I've done it twice and the rope pulled clean. A 3rd class scramble reaches the ground. |
By RNclimber From: Riverside, Ca Aug 8, 2012 rating: 5.8
| Just did this climb this past Monday in one pitch. Had doubles in .5-3, one #4 and set of nuts. Climb takes nuts really well, use long slings at the bottom and save one #2 after the double crack up top, which is a lot easier than it looks! Excellent climb! |
By Andy Weinmann From: Alexandria, VA Sep 17, 2012 rating: 5.8
| Beautiful line. Did this on 15SEP2012 and there's a #3 BD Cam fixed at the bulge below the twin cracks. Also, if you don't wanna take a #4, I used an offset yellow/blue master cam in a pin scar on the face to the right of the OW...right when my #3 woulda been nearly tipped out in the OW. Bomber. |
By Mike Holley From: Boone, NC Oct 24, 2012
| Amazing Introduction to The Valley Crack climbing!! By far one of the best 8's I have ever done! A Total Must do!! You Can just reach the rappel with a 70 meter if you stop about 20 feet off the deck on a huge ledge, but you will surely need two if your using 60's. Do It!!!! |
By Sara Ann From: Sunnyvale, CA Nov 28, 2012 rating: 5.8
| Don't take the offwidth up and right of the small roof unless you're sure you can climb it without getting your knee stuck... Much more fun to exit the left side of the roof straight up! Take a number 4. |
By TacoDelRio From: Camp 4 or something Feb 13, 2013
| Trailed a 200ft static behind me (followed my buddy). Rope ended about 5ft above the ground, so from anchor straight down to the start is about 205". Fixed #4 C4 up there. When throwing ropes for the rapp, try to throw climber's left of the route. There is a huge flake down climber's right that eats rope. There is a big tree near it. |
By Kirk B. From: Boise, ID Feb 22, 2013 rating: 5.8-
| Run out the rope. It's The Way. Perfect fit. |
By Kyle Napierkowski Apr 29, 2013
| This route was a good reminder to me that Yosemite 5.8 is different than 5.8 elsewhere. Although, we climbed Nutcracker earlier in the day and struggled much more with this route. Straight-in hand jam section was pretty short and the wide cracks were tough for me as a yosemite neophyte. |
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