Bishop's Scepter  5.6

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  Bill Wright and Mark Oveson, D. MacDonald & K. Kovaly?, 1995. New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Mark Oveson on Aug 26, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mark Oveson climbing on the Bishop's Scepter.

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Description 

The Bishop's Scepter is a stunning, narrow spire just west of and downhill from the Bishop. It looks much harder than it turns out to be. In fact, the climbing is clean, fun, reasonbly well protected, and only 5.6 in difficulty. The top of the spire is so narrow that a regular 2-foot diameter sling will easily go around it.

From a comfortable belay east of the spire, make a few moves to engage its east face. Move up and right to a subsidiary thumb that you can stand on to place some gear. From here, traverse left under a steep wall to a comfortable stance and engage the crux, which consists of one or two 5.6 moves over a bulge and onto a slab. Reach out and touch the summit--and stand on it if you dare!

The first ascent party rappelled from a sling. Downclimbing off the route could leave the summit clean. An nice addition would be a well-placed pair of bolts or pitons near the summit.

This is a classic and stunning tower well within the ability of mere mortal climbers.

Protection 

Cams and stoppers, sewn sling for the rappel

Photos of Bishop's Scepter Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Route on the Bishop's Scepter	Mark Oveson at the crux of the Bishop's Scepter.	Mark Oveson on the summit of the Bishop's Scepter.
The route on the Bishop's Scepter.	Bishop's Scepter.