Bishop Peak 

Public comment is currently being sort by the city council on the draft Bishop Peak Conservation Plan. You can find the draft here:www.ci.san-luis-obispo.ca.us/naturalresources/openspacemanag>>>

Of note to climbers is the issue of raptor nesting. In the Pinnacles NM they close certain routes during raptor nesting. Possibly this is being considered at Bishops Peak? I don't know. But if we want to be involved, get your feedback into the city by March. Then again, it may be more prudent to not rock the boat :-)

The rock of Bishop Peak (and the surrounding morros) is Dacite. It is an extrusive, high-silica, igneous, volcanic rock (similar to andesite).

From wikipedia,

"The rocks of this group occur in Romania, Almeria (Spain), Argyll and other parts of Scotland, New Zealand, the Andes, Martinique, Nevada and other districts of western North America, Greece as well as other places. They are mostly associated with andesites and trachytes, and form lava flows, dikes, and in some cases form massive intrusions in the centers of volcanoes.

The word dacite comes from Dacia, a Roman province found between the Danube River and Carpathian Mountains (nowadays modern Romania) where the rock was first described."

Visited this place for the first time last weekend. The climbing was unexpectedly good and the grades felt pretty honest. Respect. Even more interesting were all the people we met. All hospitable, fun, funky people with far less attitude then Santa Cruz County crowd I'm used to. Good restaurants and bars and a killer party at "The Stab". Worthy of many more visits. Keep it real SLO!

Letter from John Knight...

"I met w/John Dalbey yesterday and we had a very productive dialogue out at Shadow (Ken Klis and Dave Delkeskamp were there as well). I see how my actions have adversely impacted people. Believe me; I'm as interested as anyone in addressing the concerns that have been raised.


Recently, this has resulted in a "bolt war"? and someone has chopped the Mouse Maze bolts and smashed the Mouse Maze anchor bolts (which were shared w/Ken's route to the right of MM). Bolt wars are UGLY and benefit no one. They typically leave the rock more scarred than if it was left alone. Whoever did this cowardly act of removing MM should step forward and admit to what they did. I would like to meet with them in person and have them explain their actions to me.

Bottom line, JD & I agreed the best thing for everyone was for me to agree to a "cease fire"? for 6 months. This includes NO new routes, bolt replacement, lichen scrubbing, rock scarring, spray painting, vegetation removal/cutting/clearing, bolt installation, base modifications, fiddling w/bolts, etc., etc. for at least 6 months. I have agreed to leave the bolt gun, lichen brush & clippers at home.

Ken Klis later suggested I jack that up to 1 year. One year is fine w/me. In a year, emotions should calm down and people can think more clearly. I suggest in August 2010, we re-visit the issues with those most concerned and discuss how to move forward from there. Perhaps we can all agree to meet out at Bishop's and open a dialogue about climbing/climber impacts and how to address those impacts. Maybe combine this discussion w/an Access Fund Crag Cleanup Day.

Thank you (and others that have gotten caught up in this) for your e-mails and your patience.

I'm looking forward to just spending some time out rock climbing.

Happy Climbing!

John"

Thank you!

To: Climbers and Friends of Climbers

September 2011 UPDATE! This event is now scheduled for Saturday, September 24th at 9am. There will be a raffle and free gear given away! See latest post below for more info.


JOHN

Erosion and exposed routes on the Coastal Live Oak Trees at the base of Cracked Wall. Submitted By: John Knight on Jan 6, 2010

camping close to bishops peak?

Update: March 2011

Looking for a full compilation of the topos for Bishop Peak? I am currently working on an update for the Bishop Peak electronic, or e-Guide. I am hoping it will be available in April 2011. However, if you want a copy of the June 2010 version go to centralcoastclimbing.com/toposeguides.html or send me an e-mail.

John
john@centralcoastclimbing.com

If it rains this Friday and Saturday, how long does it take for the rock to be climbable? Is it ok to go out on Sunday and Monday?

Edit: It seems a couple of days is a good idea after heavy rain. We went up about 4 days after a couple days of rain and the rock was nice, some places were still wet though. A cold mostly cloudy day can make afternoon climbing a challenge (it would be nice to add some info about the climbing season and weather to the main Bishop Peak page).

Bishop peak seems to be a great place to go for some adventuresome climbing as well as standard cragging. I've never seen so much poison oak in my life! Don't let that scare you away because most of it is easily avoidable, as least on the walls I visited (Cracked Wall, P-Wall, and Garden Wall). I'll be back to climb here more, as it's definitely worth the 1.5 hour drive from SB.

Found a chalkbag today, off of the trail. If it's yours, message me and I will get it back to you. Please include brand and color so I know its yours : )

Has anyone checked out the boulder on the trail up about two horseshoes past wild west pinnacles seems to be unclimbed due to a lot of breaking rock, its up a trail that seems well walked but more like hikers than climbers. It has like 20 feet of unprotected fairly easy climbing that leads to a kinda BIG boulder resting on top of it seems like you can fit a number 3 BD or somethin in here and then the next ten or so feet on the boulder seem quite difficult. any word on it??

anyone up for checking it out with me.

Hey!

There is a pretty cool rock wall just after the start of the Felsman Loop trail on the right hand side. It's bolted (some old, some new) but doesn't seem to be on this side or the e-guide. Does anyone have info. on this area? Thanks!

Brett, it sounds like you're referring to the Potato Boulder. Check it out on page 3 of Austin Moore's BP Bouldering Guide: Bishop Peak Bouldering Guide

That's it! Thanks, Ryan.

I will be in SLO for a quick climbing trip from Sunday, May 5 to Tuesday, May 6. Plan to climb at Bishop Peak and in need of a climbing partner. Otherwise I will be left to boulder. Anyone available? I sport climb in the 5.10s and have gone up a couple of easy trad routes but nothing serious. Happy to follow though.