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 ADVANCED
The Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bishop Jaggers T 
Bolts to Somewhere T,S 
Burke Box Ball Route S 
Connections T,S 
Dire Straits T,S 
Dos Equis T,S 
Fuzzy Thinking T,S 
Look out, Sarah! T 
Pornographic Motions T,S 
PTL Club T 
Resurrection T,S 
Rhythm Scratch T 
RU Red I T 
Sea Of Holes T 
South Side Johnny T 
Sposi-Isaacs Route T 
Topographical Oceans T 
Village People T 
YMCA Right Variation T 

Bishop Jaggers 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Duncan Ferguson with either or Chris Reveley /Jim Walsh
Page Views: 7,117
Submitted By: Ray Snead on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Eric Sanford climbing, Olaf Mitchell belaying, Pho...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Dome's historic ultra classic. There is mandatory excitement around the roof on the 2nd pitch (as described here) - no way to dog this one. Start near the center of the face at an obvious easy crack.

P1: Climb the crack (5.5, gear) to its top [optional belay], then friction up to join Topographical Oceans for the first three bolts of its second pitch (5.9). Veer left, then climb up and right to a belay at an arch.

P2: Climb right around the arch-roof (5.9) with courage, then follow a ramp up and left to a belay above the arch.

P3: Climb up past a bolt to an overlap, and turn it on the right (5.6) or left (5.9), and continue up left to a belay.

P4: Move left on a ramp to a wide-ish crack, climb it (5.8) to the easy summit slabs.

Downclimb to the east to descend.

Protection 

Old school bolts plus a light rack.


Photos of Bishop Jaggers Slideshow Add Photo
My favorate Old Rusty removed from this route.
My favorate Old Rusty removed from this route.
Kat A. lounging at the end of P2 on Bishop's Jaggers (5.9) on The Dome in the S. Platte.  The Bishop formation lies in the background.
Kat A. lounging at the end of P2 on Bishop's Jagge...
Shane Zentner starting out on pitch 2
Shane Zentner starting out on pitch 2
Natalie cleaning the 3rd pitch.
Natalie cleaning the 3rd pitch.
Shane heading toward the second bolt on pitch 2.
Shane heading toward the second bolt on pitch 2.
We combined the first two pitches.  Dustin and Meredith finishing the first pitch corner and starting the second pitch slab.
We combined the first two pitches. Dustin and Mer...
Linking pitches one and two.
Linking pitches one and two.
Gary at the second belay stance.
Gary at the second belay stance.
Kat A. following the traverse at the end of P3 on Bishop's Jaggers (5.9) on The Dome in the S. Platte.  The Cynical Pinnacle lies in the background.
Kat A. following the traverse at the end of P3 on ...
Shane Zentner on pitch one.
Shane Zentner on pitch one.
Natalie at the belay on pitch 3.  Don't use the wobly tree and the nasty bolt.  The horizontal crack eats gear.
Natalie at the belay on pitch 3. Don't use the wo...
Anne following the second pitch of Bishop Jaggers.
Anne following the second pitch of Bishop Jaggers.
Anne moving up.
Anne moving up.
Kat A. following P2 of Bishop's Jaggers (5.9) on The Dome in the S. Platte.
Kat A. following P2 of Bishop's Jaggers (5.9) on T...
Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.
Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers@S...
Dustin starting the third pitch.
Dustin starting the third pitch.

Comments on Bishop Jaggers Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 10, 2010
By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Oct 31, 2002

When we did this route, we rapped to the climbers left instead of walking off. 2-3? raps from bolt anchors. The belay bolts on the route after P2 are heinous so we set an awkward belay off a couple cams (.75 and 1 camalot) in the crack just below it.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Nov 4, 2002

I linked pitches one and two together. Pitch two was a bit dicey because of the runouts on old bolts. My partner led the third and fifth pitch. We rapped from the top on old belay stations that are equipped with dangerous bolts. I would recommend walking down rather than rapping, as the bolts on this rock are not the greatest.
By Mark J. Nelson
Jan 13, 2003

I climbed Bishop's Jaggers on Labor Day in 2001. I was swarmed by bees twice on the traditional first pitch (half of the first pitch from the description.)

Though it makes for a good story, and the bees were only low on the route (before the difficult climbing), it's still a useful cautionary tale, particularly for those who react more strongly than I do to bee stings.
By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Jul 9, 2004

Fun climb but be ready to really run it out. If your not completely confident on 5.9 South Platte (!) slab then I would not recommend this route at all. The bolts on the entire climb were horrible at best. I wouldn't trust a fall on those rusty old things or even hang off them for that matter. Also the roof pitch (2nd, if you link 1 and 2), is pretty tricky. Not particularly hard moves, but the route finding for me was a real challenge. Go for the crack in the roof strait up from the belay. Have fun and be safe. Also be ready for a real haul up there, especially if you miss the right trail!!!!
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Jul 10, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This climb (along with the Dome and the Cathedral Spires )is closed from March 1 to July 31 and has been for years. Its still posted as closed on the Access Fund site. Please don't climb here during this time frame.

P.S. If someone has info that it opened early - please post it!
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Sep 5, 2004

I climbed Topographical Oceans several weeks ago and climbed past the second pitch belay station for Bishops Jaggers. One of the bolt's button head is cracked, the hanger spins easily, and the overall condition of the bolts is not good. Don't belay here-belay farther along or belay somewhere under the roof(one might consider belaying from the station that occupies the end of pitch two of Topo). The above belay station is a death trap.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 10, 2005

Just climbed this yesterday. The bolts have been replaced by the ASCA. Now the climbing is safe as well as enjoyable.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 8, 2005

Did Bishop's Jaggers last week. Nice shiny new bolts, the work is appreciated. There appeared to be a new rappel route bolted to the left so we attempted to rap after four pitches. The first rap (ends above the big roof to the L of the 3rd belay) came up no less than 5 feet short with a single 60m rope! I say come on now, are we installing 70m rap stations at a long-established crag? This is dangerous, someone's going to rap off the end of their lines. Be careful!
By pfwein
Oct 2, 2006

Thanks ASCA--I emailed a donation after doing this route, as I wouldn't have done it on the old bolts (same with many other S. Platte climbs).
By Steven N
From: CO
Oct 5, 2006

Climbed it last week. THANKS to ASCA for all the nice new bolts. That pic of the old one is scary!!
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 5, 2007

I'm perplexed that the first ascent party is not listed here. Duncan Ferguson with either or Chris Reveley /Jim Walsh. A Platte classic if not a Colorado must do.
By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Mar 3, 2009

The left variation on pitch 3 as described above provided excellent, interesting climbing.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 10, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is definitely a Colorado Classic climb; was my intro to the South Platte. Superb rock, and a bit scary in places, in spite of the lower angle rock. The new bolts reported above would make it less psychic.