This is a fantastic first lead route and should be judged as such, especially pitch 1 and 3. It has abundant gear and belay ledge options. The views of Staunton Park and the surrounding mountains are fantastic.
P1. Follow obvious crack system to pine tree. Either belay above to the right of the tree or head to second smaller tree and belay there. This is mostly 5.2 with a short 5.4 section to belay.
P2. Go left and follow the obvious crack or gully to the second belay at the ledge, 5.4.
P3. Follow slabs to the summit, 5.2.
This is at the bottom of the Ranch Hand. Follow the climber's access trail marked 'CA', pass Bombadier Dome. The next dome you see coming off the trail is the Ranch Hand. Look uphill for the crack leading to the 2 trees.
Not necessary, but if you have big gear you could go up to a #5 Camalot or #7 tricam. There are abundant finger to fist gear placements on this route, so you can leave the big stuff at home.
By Justin Burkhardt
Jun 20, 2015
This is a fun beginner lead for someone who hasn't lead a multi-pitch trad route before. The views from the top are amazing! One piece of advice don't believe the guidebook when it says you can walk off. The only way you'll walk off is you happen to have a hoverboard in your rack. We found a tree you rap off of on the north east corner of the dome. Look for some cairns, and you should find a tree with some webbing you can use too descend, we use a 60m rope and it was more than enough to gets us down. Once you are on the ground, it is definitely a bushwhack to get back to the trail. I hop this helps anyone who has been wondering how to get off this route.
By Rick Blair
Jun 24, 2015
Justin, I have a beta picture of the decent on the main Ranch Hand page. I think it goes pretty reasonably, very secure 4th class. I don't think it's worth leaving tat up there, but if you can't find the way down, by all means be safe.
Remember to pay attention to bird closures.