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The Riviera
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Abandonment 
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Birthday Suit 
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Dancing Hippos 
Devin's Dihedral 
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Le Nouveau Riche Variation 
Lease Agreement 
Minstrel, The 
Monte Carlo 
New Lease on Life 
Sea Breeze 
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Unknown Trad Line 
Zig Zag Crack 

Birthday Suit 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Susan Simpson and Dan Hare, 1995
Page Views: 1,621
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

Start between Devin's Dihedral and Silver Glide. Make a steep face move past a bolt, then a difficult step up and right (or a mantle) to a narrow ledge (#1 or #2 Camalot for pro). Climb up and right, joining Silver Glide, past four more bolts to the anchor.

This climb can also be toproped after leading Au Natural.


Protection 

5 bolts plus #1 or #2 Camalot.



Comments on Birthday Suit Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Apr 13, 2002

For those who can't make it up Silver Glide (that's me), this is actually quite a good route. While the book shows the route going around the arete to get to the second bolt, it's possible to go straight up the lower face and do a nice and rather balancy mantle off the obvious shelf.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Hmmm. I went straight up the right side, not knowing what route was what until after I'd done them. I placed a few tricams in the crack on the arete between the first and second bolts to do this route, and was glad to have them for what I perceived to be the crux.

By Nick Kuhn
Sep 26, 2003

This is fun, tricky, and thoughtful for a few moves, especially trying to mantle onto that first ledge. Yes, it is a bit crammed in, but it does not deserve the "Bomb" rating.

A #2 Camalot protects between the first and second bolt; probably nice to use a shoulder-length sling to avoid rope drag.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 29, 2003

Ditto, better than a bomb. Worth a run if you're there.

By ac
Jun 22, 2005

Gear Alert

Left anchor bolt-nut is loose. Next party should take a wrench and tighten it.

Cheers,

By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Aug 13, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

If manufactured holds are your cup of tea, this will be right up your alley.

By Rich Farnham
Jun 2, 2010

I found that a few Aliens (green and yellow is what I used) kept this a little safer. There is a tricky move after the first bolt before you can get the 2" cam in. The yellow Alien protected this nicely. The mantle up to the second bolt is pretty tricky. The climbing after this is interesting enough, but the bolt job is pretty poor. They're all good bolts, and they're plenty close, but their placement is pretty random.

I didn't notice the manufactured holds, but I wasn't looking that close. Wouldn't surprise me.

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Better than advertised. I think that Percious may not have gotten his route right given the 10d rating and the manufactured hold comment. A couple of cams for the bottom and the crack after the 1st bolt make this a little less sporty.