This easy climb follows a very easy ridge. Its moderate grade make it a great climb to show a non climber what the fuss is all about.
Follows a prominent ridge in a huge corner using the picture in the online guidebook it is impossible to miss. Carry double ropes of the rappel.
Most belays are bolted. A single rack of cams and nuts plus double ropes for the rappel. Anchors are bolted.
|By alan D|
Dec 5, 2010
4 pitchs I always thought it was 2 ?
From: Toronto, Ontario
May 22, 2013
rating: 5.1 2 6 II MD 2a
From the Guide Book (V5) by Adcock and Brown
Bon Echo's first route remains by tradition the introduction for most novice climbers.
70. Birthday Ridge 5.2 (or 5.0) ∗∗∗
Start: the tree-filled gully north of The Pinnacle.
1. 15m Scramble up the gully and over the scree to a pair of large trees on the left. If you really want a 5.0 climb, scramble further up the gulley on the right to the Saucer Lucy and Thin Nick
start, then follow 2 alt.
2. 35m, 5.2 Climb the break in the boulders and follow the ramp leftwards up to the ridge. Work your way right up a crack to a ledge covered with loose boulders. Round the nose on the skyline and climb the easy angled wall to a large stance by a silver birch tree (with a two bolt belay station).
2 alt. 30m, 5.0 Climb corners and ledges up and left to the silver birch belay at the end of the standard pitch 2.
3. 25m Move left up the slab above the birch tree to a groove which leads to a ledge by some juniper bushes. Climb left to the ridge and follow it to a ledge with a small strong cedar tree where the angle of the ridge eases. This tree is a good example of the ancient cedars on the cliff. Don’t sling it – there’s a bolt. Belay here or continue to the top. (Best to continue to the top)
4. 15m Prance on up to the top. Belay off of natural gear immediately at the top of the route, or at the two bolt rappel station. Two ropes are needed for a rappel.
History: FA: David Fisher, Marnie Gilmour, Alan Bruce-Robertson, Kay McCormick, September 1, 1956.