Birthday Party 5.7
| 2,162 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Dana Hollister. Chuck Parker. Pete Noebels, 1974 |
| Season: | Fall to Spring |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Mar 8, 2006 |
| |
joe K. and joe J. at the top of the route on a bea...
Add Photo Printer View
Description Birthday Party is a nice mixed face and crack line that will challenge the 5.7 leader nicely. While the route had been climbed literally hundreds of times without incident prior to 1994, two bolts were added to the starting moves before Pinnacle Peak Park opened to protect modern gym climbers. Start in a shallow right-facing corner at the end of the wall. Some thin face moves lead up past the two low bolts to better holds. Continue up, placing nuts to reach the obvious roof crack above. Jam the overhanging roof crack to easier vertical ground and continue to the top. Belay is set by downclimbing off the back and using cracks in the ledge behind.
Location The route is found on the "Upper East Wall" section of Pinnacle Peak, about 150 feet left of the chimney that marks the start of the South Crack route.
Protection Nuts, cams from 1/2" to #3 Camalot size.
BETA PHOTO: Base of Birthday Party.
| BETA PHOTO: Barry with first cam in on roof
| View of the bottom section, with pro being placed ...
| Moving into the lieback crux move.
| Paul leading Birthday party - 5.7
| Birthday Party 5.7 Pinnacle Peak Park
| | | |
| Comments on Birthday Party |
|
By Brandon Bogardus From: Scottsdale, AZ Feb 3, 2007
| Skip the bolts. Cheers for old-school 5.7!!! If you want, you can bring some gear and set up a top rope. No shame in that. |
By David Shiembob From: slc, ut Feb 6, 2007 rating: 5.8
| The initial slab moves were pretty thin, and that roof is pretty physical for 5.7. Fun route. |
By Debbie Vischer From: Loveland Feb 15, 2009 rating: 5.8+
| Glad to have had the first bolt as there is no place for protection until you are 20+ feet off the ground. Pulling roof was fun... tape not a bad idea as rock is super abbrasive here. |
By Sagar Gondalia Oct 16, 2011 rating: 5.8
| 2nd bolt to crack is runout. The roof is much easier as a standard hand jam roof than a lie back, makes it much closer to the grade than otherwise... Build your own anchor on top. A great first pitch to the top of pinnacle peak (2nd pitch South Crack) |
By ClimbPHX.com From: Mesa AZ Jan 3, 2012
| Great day for a GREAT CLIMB! The jams on this one were good...Drop it, turn it and pull. Good Stuff! |
By Ryan Myers From: Tempe, Arizona Nov 9, 2012
| One of the best climbs at Pinnacle Peak for sure. |
By William Nelson From: Cave Creek, AZ Mar 3, 2013 rating: 5.8-
| Old school Pinnacle Peak 5.7 for 8-10 feet at slight overhung hand crack. |
|