Birth and Transmogrification
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Paul Glover |
Page Views: | 925 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Paul Glover on Nov 16, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Make a wandering rightward scramble up through bush clogged choss below the shallow dihedral. Chimney (5.0) up right to a ledge, and keep journeying right . Ascend a flake to its end on the right side of the shallow dihedral (5.7). Now this brief and kinda clean climb begins. Undercling up and left, then punch straight up at the end of the undercling. Now do a unpleasant traverse left to the top of the dihedral and go up. Pull onto the slab and lower.
Location
There is an obvious, somewhat impressive headwall along the South Face of the Flying Flatiron at about half height. It is impossible to miss the almost stunning, shallow dihedral in the headwall when making the obnoxious haul to The Inside Passage. B&T ascends a line of weakness along the right margin of the dihedral, which dihedral is a choss trough.
Protection
From under Satan's Toy, solo 5.nuthin right up to a blobby perch on a should of the Flying Flatiron. Throw in ginormous cams, drape a 20m length of something you trust down the rough slab, and try to get some directionals down there. Knot a power point in the rope, and hang a second rope for the TR. This is a typical difficult-to-rig Flatiron TR.
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