Birds of Prey (approach)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Type: | Sport, Alpine, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | RMWright and ABS, Summer 2014 |
Page Views: | 726 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Aug 18, 2014 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Birds of Prey is a two pitch approach route to the Eyrie Sector. The climbing was overall much better than suggested by examination from the ground and certainly could be climbed independently. Please check the description of the Eyrie Sector; there is an easy scramble from the top of P2 to gain the ledge system adjacent to the Eyrie Sector proper. It should not be too difficult to string both of the BOP pitches together, just use some slings to reduced rope drag higher up. To descend, rap the line to the trail or the base ledge.
P1, 65 feet, 5.11. Chase the bolts up a calf burning slab to a crux corner. Climbing on this pitch was much better than imagined from the ground. There is good rock throughout. Depending on how you do it, the crux could be either easy 5.11 or middle 5.11, but it seemed a lot easier on repeat.
P2, 70 feet, 5.10+. Chase more bolts to the streaked slab above. While it looks appealing to climb the slab directly, this is quite blank, and the corner on the right provides usable but slopy handholds. This last bit could also be done entirely left of the bolts if that is desirable. There is good rock throughout.
P1, 65 feet, 5.11. Chase the bolts up a calf burning slab to a crux corner. Climbing on this pitch was much better than imagined from the ground. There is good rock throughout. Depending on how you do it, the crux could be either easy 5.11 or middle 5.11, but it seemed a lot easier on repeat.
P2, 70 feet, 5.10+. Chase more bolts to the streaked slab above. While it looks appealing to climb the slab directly, this is quite blank, and the corner on the right provides usable but slopy handholds. This last bit could also be done entirely left of the bolts if that is desirable. There is good rock throughout.
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